Fuel System
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Tourer
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 461
Likes: 21
From: Providence
You may not have an active code, but you could have a historic one since everything is working OK now.
Normally when you turn on the ignition your engine light should illuminate and then go out out after a few seconds. If it comes on again and stays on...you have an active code (still detecting a fault). If it comes on again and then goes out again after a few seconds you have a historical code (detected a fault some time, but not now).
If either are the case you can pull the codes like this:
1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.
2- Push odometer reset button in & hold.
3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting should illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel
, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word "diag" should then appear.
4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSptb" with the first P flashing.
5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t to b and back to P, etc.)
P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module [EFI] / Ignition Control Module [Carbureted])
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)
Sp = speedometer
t = tachometer
b = ABS brakes (if equipped)
6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC's the code will be displayed or the word "none" will appear if there are no DTC's. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.
7 - Record the codes.
8 - If DTC's are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.
NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC's again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.
9 - Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.
10 - Turn Ignition switch to OFF.
Normally when you turn on the ignition your engine light should illuminate and then go out out after a few seconds. If it comes on again and stays on...you have an active code (still detecting a fault). If it comes on again and then goes out again after a few seconds you have a historical code (detected a fault some time, but not now).
If either are the case you can pull the codes like this:
1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.
2- Push odometer reset button in & hold.
3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting should illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel
, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word "diag" should then appear.4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSptb" with the first P flashing.
5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t to b and back to P, etc.)
P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module [EFI] / Ignition Control Module [Carbureted])
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)
Sp = speedometer
t = tachometer
b = ABS brakes (if equipped)
6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC's the code will be displayed or the word "none" will appear if there are no DTC's. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.
7 - Record the codes.
8 - If DTC's are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.
NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC's again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.
9 - Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.
10 - Turn Ignition switch to OFF.
Thread Starter
|
Tourer
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 461
Likes: 21
From: Providence
You may not have an active code, but you could have a historic one since everything is working OK now.
Normally when you turn on the ignition your engine light should illuminate and then go out out after a few seconds. If it comes on again and stays on...you have an active code (still detecting a fault). If it comes on again and then goes out again after a few seconds you have a historical code (detected a fault some time, but not now).
If either are the case you can pull the codes like this:
1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.
2- Push odometer reset button in & hold.
3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting should illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word "diag" should then appear.
4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSptb" with the first P flashing.
5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t to b and back to P, etc.)
P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module [EFI] / Ignition Control Module [Carbureted])
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)
Sp = speedometer
t = tachometer
b = ABS brakes (if equipped)
6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC's the code will be displayed or the word "none" will appear if there are no DTC's. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.
7 - Record the codes.
8 - If DTC's are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.
NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC's again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.
9 - Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.
10 - Turn Ignition switch to OFF.
Normally when you turn on the ignition your engine light should illuminate and then go out out after a few seconds. If it comes on again and stays on...you have an active code (still detecting a fault). If it comes on again and then goes out again after a few seconds you have a historical code (detected a fault some time, but not now).
If either are the case you can pull the codes like this:
1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.
2- Push odometer reset button in & hold.
3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting should illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel
, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word "diag" should then appear.4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSptb" with the first P flashing.
5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t to b and back to P, etc.)
P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module [EFI] / Ignition Control Module [Carbureted])
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)
Sp = speedometer
t = tachometer
b = ABS brakes (if equipped)
6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC's the code will be displayed or the word "none" will appear if there are no DTC's. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.
7 - Record the codes.
8 - If DTC's are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.
NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC's again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.
9 - Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.
10 - Turn Ignition switch to OFF.
Road Master
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 832
Likes: 1
From: Bagram, Afghanistan
Not sure on these as I left my Elec manual in the truck....my wife took it for a while.
I would unseat the connector on the throttle servo motor, use a little dielectric grease, and reconnect. Then clear the codes and see if they come back.
At least it doesn't sound like the twist grip sensor. But that 1511 code is what killed your performance (intentional by ECM because of the 2101 code). Address the 2101 code and 1511 should go away.
I would unseat the connector on the throttle servo motor, use a little dielectric grease, and reconnect. Then clear the codes and see if they come back.
At least it doesn't sound like the twist grip sensor. But that 1511 code is what killed your performance (intentional by ECM because of the 2101 code). Address the 2101 code and 1511 should go away.
Road Master
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 832
Likes: 1
From: Bagram, Afghanistan
Also try this....
Clear the codes and disconnect the connector to the throttle servo motor (behind the air cleaner). This will throw a few codes (nothing harmful). If 2101 is one of them then it is most probably the connection there that is the issue.
Try the dielectric grease. It is your friend where there is electricity and water intrusion. I use it EVERY time I reconnect anything electrical.
Clear the codes and disconnect the connector to the throttle servo motor (behind the air cleaner). This will throw a few codes (nothing harmful). If 2101 is one of them then it is most probably the connection there that is the issue.
Try the dielectric grease. It is your friend where there is electricity and water intrusion. I use it EVERY time I reconnect anything electrical.
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