So I picked up my 08 street glide a month ago from my mech. He had rebuilt it after someoine had hit a curb, cracked the case, and tore a tab off the frame. Got new cases and a rebuyild and a new frame and saved a good hunk of change. Here's the prob. Last week the engine light and Battery light came on and when he checked it he said the statur was putting out fine and that the reg. was bad. I went to the stealer and picked up a chrome one and put it on. The next day I was having a overcharging prob. and found the ground connections were loose. I tightened them and everything was good, till yesterday when I was putting around town slow for about 10 minutes and the lights caame back on. WTF ZNow I dont know if the stature has gone out or the battery is going bad. I have heard that there have been stature prob with this bike and just wondering what the majority ideas are. Sure hope if anything its the battery.

 

Thanks for the info, guys.

 

Not saying this is your issue, but sometimes when one of those go it takes out another (i.e. having to change a VR and a stator together, or a battery). Here's a copy and paste from another place for you:

Testing The Charging System
Published date: Jun 22nd, 2007

Step 1. First things first, load test the battery. Most places like Auto Zone will do it for free. Even if it measures over 12.5 vdc it can still be bad under a load. Battery is typically rated at 19 amp hours and 270 Cold Cranking Amps (CCA).

Start the engine and measure DC Volts across the battery terminals, the regulator should be putting out 14.3 - 14.7 vdc at 3600 rpm and 75 degrees F.


Step 2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.

To do this with a meter which is more accurate: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
You may get battery voltage on all three pins on the newer 3 phase regulators.
The no voltage is for older type regulators with diode indicating the diode is bad and the regulator needs replacing.


Step 3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for the TC88 32 amp system.


Step 4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).


Step 5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.


Step 6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if if passed step 2).


Generally the following is true:
Check your owners/service manual for the system amp output for your bike.
22 amp system produces about 19-26 vac per 1,000 rpm, stator resistance is about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms.
32 amp system produces about 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm, stator resistance is about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms.
45 amp system produces about 19-26 vac per 1,000 rpm, stator resistance is about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms.

 

Thanks great suggestions but I finally found it. When I installed the regulator I pinched the wires and they were shorting out. Rerouted the wires and we're all good. Again thanks maybe I can help someone else with these suggestions.

 

I finally had a repeat of the check engine and battery light on mine last week. It had happened a couple of times last fall, but the dealer never found anything on the PO562 "low voltage" issue.
Took it in while the lights were on, and ends up being a short in the stator. So she sits til Thursday.

Glad I sprung for the ext warranty when I bought her last year. Last fall they "dinged" me for $85 and no fix. $65 diag fee and misc shop materials, allegedly not covered by the warranty. Interested to see if they try the diag fee again since they caught it in the act.

 

So the "stealer" didnt have anything to do with it?!

 

Got a call from the dealer, said it's ready to roll. Replaced the stator and voltage regulator all for $55.65. Guess that warranty has paid for itself.

Too bad I have or had less than 100 miles on some fresh Amsoil 20/50 synth. Guess I'll find out when I pick it up if they happened to save and re-use the juice in the primary. Don't know if they would have drained the motor to do the stator or not.

 

If you told them you had fresh synthetic in there they would have saved/reused, if you didnt say anything they dumped it and refilled with F+, we're not mind readers, sometimes a little extra info goes a long way.

You do NOT need to drain motor for stator job, just the primary.