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If you change your turn signals, front & rear, you will need a l/e - period. If you ever plan on using your flasher for more than 1 minute, you will need the Badlands Illuminator. All of the others will slowly melt down. A run/turn/brake controller will not give you the resistance that you need. Remember the old saying - "You get what you pay for".
When your old burt out run/turn/brake controller burns up, get yourself a Badlands, especially if you have a security system.
I have yet to see any posts that identify H-D literature where the presence of the security light on is an indication of a bulb failure (or smaller current draw than is expected, as is the case with LEDs). I would still like to know where this "known fact" is dcoumented.
If you change your turn signals, front & rear, you will need a l/e - period. If you ever plan on using your flasher for more than 1 minute, you will need the Badlands Illuminator. All of the others will slowly melt down. A run/turn/brake controller will not give you the resistance that you need. Remember the old saying - "You get what you pay for".
When your old burt out run/turn/brake controller burns up, get yourself a Badlands, especially if you have a security system.
This is absolutely correct. I have a 2010 SE Ultra and the only way to have the rear turn signals converted to LEDs as Run/Turn/Stop (red) lights is to use the Badlands Illuminator module. As already shared, this is the only module that is security capatible and won't overheat when the 4-way flashers are run.
Then if you want to add amber LEDs to the front turn signals, you're OK unless you also have the HD LED windshield light bar with built-in turn signals. If you have this HD light bar, you'll also need to add a second Badlands LE module (metric) to accomodate the HD light bar combined with LED upfront turn signals.
I did all the testing for Badlands to confirm this solution. The guys were great to work with and now there's a solution for anyone looking to install LEDs at all 4 corners AND also use the HD LED windshield light bar.
Heatwave - As I mentioned before, I have the stock rear signals converted to Radiantz l.e.d.'s as well as another set of signals, saddlebag spoiler l.e.d.'s, Run Time Technology l.e.d.'s in tour pak wired as signals, front l.e.d.'s and the fairing l.e.d. strip and I've never had the issue that you had. Was this decided that it is year specific?
Heatwave - As I mentioned before, I have the stock rear signals converted to Radiantz l.e.d.'s as well as another set of signals, saddlebag spoiler l.e.d.'s, Run Time Technology l.e.d.'s in tour pak wired as signals, front l.e.d.'s and the fairing l.e.d. strip and I've never had the issue that you had. Was this decided that it is year specific?
The guys at Badlands thought it might be related to the new 2010 wiring. Essentially the opposite side blinker on the HD LED windshield light bar would flicker which could cause confusion on the part of oncoming traffic.
Here's a video of the LED windshield light bar function with the Badlands Illuminator and 4 Radiantz LEDs in the turn signals. After the second metric L/E was added the issue was resolved. The lights are great and the Badland folks were even better to work with to resolve the conflict.
Actually the documentation that I want to see is H-D documentation, not Dennis Kirk or anyone else (Badlands, etc.). While I don't doubt that removing (the equivalent of a burned out bulb) a turn signal bulb will cause that side not to work, this says nothing about the Security light. I assume that the Security light referred to is the small key in the speedometer that lights up red. All I can find in either the owner's manual or the factory service manual is that this LED will come on for a longer period that usual if the security system is installed and appears to the system to be malfuntioning.
Called today and ordered Badlands controller/LE and got Radianz for front and back... while I was feeling rich I ordered the front fender lens/board just to be nice to myself...
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