New Problem - Check Engine Light - Throttle
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Tourer
Joined: May 2008
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From: Tupelo, MS
New Problem - Check Engine Light - Throttle
Just had a new issue get me today. I turned on the ignition on my '08 Ultra, then the fuel pump/kill switch, the little "amber" light came on as usual, cranked the bike, then the little amber HD logo went out, stuck it in gear and started to pull out, noticed the little "check engine" amber light flashed on and my throttle was stuck at idle. I couldn't get it to gain any RPM. I hit the kill switch and tried re-cranking, same thing. I then did the throttle reset proceedure... cut the kill switch to operate, then cut the ignition switch on for 10 seconds, then off, and repeating that 4 times; then ignition off and cut the kill switch to off and the ignition back on. The cut the kill switch to operate and "BINGO" worked like it was supposed to.
Question, has anyone else had this issue with your "fly-by-wire" bikes?
Question, has anyone else had this issue with your "fly-by-wire" bikes?
Supporter
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,189
Likes: 16
From: N.E. Wisconsin
Don,t use the kill switch to shut your bike off all the time, it's only for emergency. It's not a snowmobile, that why they have an ignition switch. Using the kill switch stops everything right NOW. ECM need's to go thru a shutdown just like your computer, it's like unplugging your computer from the wall every time your through using it.
Last edited by drukanfu; Jul 10, 2010 at 05:15 PM.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 401
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From: Tupelo, MS
drukanfu, that's the first time I've ever heard that? Wow, I think 90% of the people I know kill their bike with the kill switch. Hmmmmm..... even the HD mechanics that I know. I'm not saying you're wrong, just never heard that. Thanks for the tip.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 28,597
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From: Vermont
1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.
2- Push odometer reset button in & hold.
3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting should illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word "diag" should then appear.
4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" with the first P flashing.
5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)
P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module [EFI] / Ignition Control Module [Carbureted])
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)
SP = speedometer
T = tachometer
6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC's the code will be displayed or the word "none" will appear if there are no DTC's. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.
7 - Record the codes.
8 - If DTC's are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.
NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC's again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.
9 - Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.
10 - Turn Ignition switch to OFF.
2- Push odometer reset button in & hold.
3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting should illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word "diag" should then appear.
4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" with the first P flashing.
5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)
P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module [EFI] / Ignition Control Module [Carbureted])
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)
SP = speedometer
T = tachometer
6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC's the code will be displayed or the word "none" will appear if there are no DTC's. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.
7 - Record the codes.
8 - If DTC's are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.
NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC's again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.
9 - Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.
10 - Turn Ignition switch to OFF.
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Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: May 2008
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From: Tupelo, MS
Thanks a bunch, Dawg. I'll give this a try tomorrow. What about what drukanfu said on the kill switch vs ignition switch? Should I change the way I kill my bike? If so, it's gonna be a hard habit to quit. :-)
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 28,597
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From: Vermont
I always hit my kill switch to shut the bike off. The one thing to remember is to not touch the throttle when hitting the kill switch. I let it idle for a second and then hit the kill switch. That was part of the whole throttle reset deal.
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Tourer
Joined: May 2008
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From: Tupelo, MS
Dawg, I do the exact same procedure in turning off my bike.
I think I might have found something while riding to work. It seems that one of my spark plug cables seems to have a connection problem. Last time I changed spark plugs, the tech, when pulling the cable off the plug, separated the plug cap and the wire. I just had my bike "miss" a little coming home from church. When I got in the driveway, to pulled on each plug cable.... one cable feels "connected" the other cable has some play and feels there isn't a good connection. I'm going to pull it and check it when the bike cools down some. [hope this makes sense]
I think I might have found something while riding to work. It seems that one of my spark plug cables seems to have a connection problem. Last time I changed spark plugs, the tech, when pulling the cable off the plug, separated the plug cap and the wire. I just had my bike "miss" a little coming home from church. When I got in the driveway, to pulled on each plug cable.... one cable feels "connected" the other cable has some play and feels there isn't a good connection. I'm going to pull it and check it when the bike cools down some. [hope this makes sense]