looking at buying a '99 Classic
Banned
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,719
Likes: 1
Didn't he mention 14,000 miles? Most don't have to worry until approaching 25-30k miles. But, then some have had catastrophic failure before that mark too...
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,268
Likes: 2
on the 99 you gotta buy the conversion kit, about 500.00 then you have to buy a different gear because of the cam sensor, another 70 or 80. I've seen the gear drives go for 350.00. Not knocking either system just informing. I went with chain driven cams in my 06 and the newer style tensioners. I really think you can find a newer bike for the same money. A friend of mine has a 99 and he's started having trouble with the M M fuel injection and it's getting expensive. Otherwise it's the same bike as my 06. As a side note there is a bike shop in Ellijay Georgia that has an 05 electgraglide standard with a salvage title that has been cleared. It needs a front fender and a little cosmetic work, it's a theft recovery. has 32,000 miles for 7500.00. Hot rods and harleys in Ellijay georgia , if you're interested.
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,640
Likes: 817
I have a 1999, and there's a couple of bearing issues, depending on your engine manufacture date; and some other cam chest concerns.
1. The bolt used to attach the drive sprocket to the rear cam could loosen and cause the rotational force to shear the cast key of the sprocket, causing engine failure. The design was changed to the splined setup that's used now, as well as a bigger bolt. Mine never had an issue, but the condition does exist.
2. The bearing used in the cam support plate for both the front and the rear camshaft was originally a ball bearing. The rear bearing failed due to the extra loading and the design was changed to use a roller bearing for the rear only.
3. The inner cam bearing is an INA manufactured one, with rollers spaced apart by a steel stamped "cage". Many here (myself included) prefer the Torrington bearing that has more rollers without the steel spacing cage.
4. The cam chain tensioners are a wear item, and seem to wear inconsistently. I pulled mine at 38k, and they were worn, but still OK, others have had them disintegrate much earlier, and cause lots of engine damage by being ingested into the
A: oil pump and scarring the cam support plate with a resultant loss of oil pressure
B: cam bearings
C: crank bearings
These are the worst case scenarios, and many have had their bikes run long and trouble free.
I weighed the options, and decided a gear drive and all new bearings was the best route for me. You have to pull everything out anyway just to change the rear cam support plate bearing, and to me it made sense to get the biggest bang for the buck by doing all the cam chest work at one time.
1. The bolt used to attach the drive sprocket to the rear cam could loosen and cause the rotational force to shear the cast key of the sprocket, causing engine failure. The design was changed to the splined setup that's used now, as well as a bigger bolt. Mine never had an issue, but the condition does exist.
2. The bearing used in the cam support plate for both the front and the rear camshaft was originally a ball bearing. The rear bearing failed due to the extra loading and the design was changed to use a roller bearing for the rear only.
3. The inner cam bearing is an INA manufactured one, with rollers spaced apart by a steel stamped "cage". Many here (myself included) prefer the Torrington bearing that has more rollers without the steel spacing cage.
4. The cam chain tensioners are a wear item, and seem to wear inconsistently. I pulled mine at 38k, and they were worn, but still OK, others have had them disintegrate much earlier, and cause lots of engine damage by being ingested into the
A: oil pump and scarring the cam support plate with a resultant loss of oil pressure
B: cam bearings
C: crank bearings
These are the worst case scenarios, and many have had their bikes run long and trouble free.
I weighed the options, and decided a gear drive and all new bearings was the best route for me. You have to pull everything out anyway just to change the rear cam support plate bearing, and to me it made sense to get the biggest bang for the buck by doing all the cam chest work at one time.
Thread Starter
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 4,415
Likes: 5
From: San Antonio, Republic of TEXAS
UPDATE!
the '99 looks a little rougher than the photos showed, not bad - and I think with some elbow grease, it could be decent looking. certainly never show quality or new looking, a 20 ft bike. I don't care for the color combo, Red & Black.... but it's not bad looking.
the salesman threw a 2 yr warranty, 15k service and sales tax in to sweeten the deal.
the '99 looks a little rougher than the photos showed, not bad - and I think with some elbow grease, it could be decent looking. certainly never show quality or new looking, a 20 ft bike. I don't care for the color combo, Red & Black.... but it's not bad looking.
the salesman threw a 2 yr warranty, 15k service and sales tax in to sweeten the deal.
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,479
Likes: 4
From: SoCal
Either FI system is going to be the same, each one has parts that will eventually wear and need replacing, unlike carbs which as we all know last forever and are fool-proof. In fact the MM was Harley's first choice, a simple, proven reliable system that would still be in use today if not for the EPA. When the DOT/EPA announced that throttle-by-wire and closed-loop fuel injection would become mandatory, just as in automobiles, HD began searching for a system that could accomodate these, and the Delphi system could. The MM system will not adapt to throttle-by-wire or closed-loop fuel injection. Of course, it's human nature to suggest that one is of course so much better because it's new, because it is better, yadda yadda, etc. ad nauseum until it becomes a myth unto itself. Yep, you must verify you have the upgraded bearing, gear drive is nice if you don't like $170 tensioner replacement every 20-thousand miles, and you might not want to put a lowering kit on the bike unless you upgrade the swingarm. Otherwise, here's one Stage III+ modified MM Harley that can keep up with any 103 on the road in SoCal, and there are many!
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 171
Likes: 5
From: Gifhorn, Germany
I bought couple years ago a 2002 RKC. Because I wanted a white one. And I still like it.
From reading the forum now for over 2 years I wouldn't buy earlier then 2002 because bearing issues (like addressed above), wobble issues, broken rear swing arms, updated electronics etc.
How will a warranty help if you will not be satisfied with the performance, ride quality and technical problems. It looks like you are buying more a deal than a bike.
One of the drivers for me to look for a newer model is ABS. If I would be you I would look for a 09 or 10 model.
From reading the forum now for over 2 years I wouldn't buy earlier then 2002 because bearing issues (like addressed above), wobble issues, broken rear swing arms, updated electronics etc.
How will a warranty help if you will not be satisfied with the performance, ride quality and technical problems. It looks like you are buying more a deal than a bike.
One of the drivers for me to look for a newer model is ABS. If I would be you I would look for a 09 or 10 model.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 10,788
Likes: 2,222
From: Texas
The red and black Harley in the picture has had a lot of parts changed on it. I can't figure out whether it was a Classic or a Ultra when it rolled out of the factory.
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Thread Starter
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 4,415
Likes: 5
From: San Antonio, Republic of TEXAS
and when can I expect a check from you for the difference? yeah, that's what I thought - all talk......
DO AS I SAY, NOT AS I DO.
anyway, thanks for chiming in.
Thread Starter
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 4,415
Likes: 5
From: San Antonio, Republic of TEXAS
this is a good post. what's been changed?