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This sounds like an advertisement not advice. Dump the SERT?
Let me clarify, He said "a tune it would be 4-5 hours of labor at $125 an hour" That's alot more than a PCV and if you change anything in the future it means another tune at the dealer meaning; more $$$. I highly recommend Fuel Moto, They've done all the research and have manufactured they're own quality stuff so yes I'll get, give and send them business every chance I get.
if you have a fairly open exhaust with not much back pressure you are going to spend hundreds of dollars trying to get rid of the popping with no cure. Popping could happen when the engine is running very lean when the throttle is suddenly closed, however it is a normal condition on high flow pipes. you can buy a fuelpak, SERT, PC-V and even put on the auto tune and you will still have the popping. my glide was dyno-tuned with a power commander 111- perfect air fuel ratio of 13.6 from idle thru 6000 rpm and it still popped due to the characteristics of the exhaust design. if you want to get rid of the popping install an exhaust with some good back pressure design.
Stop by the dealer and pick up some new TORCA clamps for the slip on's. Also use some Permatex Copper Silicone on the pipes before you reinstall the mufflers. You are certain to get a good seal this way.
Thanks for the info... How do you use that silicone? Is it just a small bead, or a fairly generous amount?
Originally Posted by skylee
if you have a fairly open exhaust with not much back pressure you are going to spend hundreds of dollars trying to get rid of the popping with no cure. Popping could happen when the engine is running very lean when the throttle is suddenly closed, however it is a normal condition on high flow pipes. you can buy a fuelpak, SERT, PC-V and even put on the auto tune and you will still have the popping. my glide was dyno-tuned with a power commander 111- perfect air fuel ratio of 13.6 from idle thru 6000 rpm and it still popped due to the characteristics of the exhaust design. if you want to get rid of the popping install an exhaust with some good back pressure design.
I just have SE Slipon's so I do not "think" that are real high flow, I do get what you are saying though. If the sound is right then I do not mind, but if it is wrong I would like to fix it. Like I said, I just do not know with being so new to Harley's what it "should" sound like...
One hangup I would have with dumping the SERT and going with a PCV and map from Fuel Moto, is that all my knowledge of what was done to the bike is second hand info. I am not the one who did any of the mods, so I really do not know for sure everything that has been done.
Let me clarify, He said "a tune it would be 4-5 hours of labor at $125 an hour" That's alot more than a PCV and if you change anything in the future it means another tune at the dealer meaning; more $$$. I highly recommend Fuel Moto, They've done all the research and have manufactured they're own quality stuff so yes I'll get, give and send them business every chance I get.
+1 for FuelMoto!! Unless you are trying to get the last 1/2 HP/Ftlb of Tq, Jamie's maps are really close enough. 4-5 hrs @ $125 seems to be a mite much just to clear up some exhaust 'popping'.
perfect air fuel ratio of 13.6 from idle thru 6000 rpm and it still popped due to the characteristics of the exhaust design.
13.6 everyware is far from perfect. You can be as lean as 14.5 in cruise areas and should be 13-13.2 at wot. Adding fuel in 20% Map column on the afr table is one way of eliminating decel pop. Sometimes you may have to go as rich as 12.2 to eliminate the pop. As a rule of thumb it will not affect fuel mileage as you are only in this area of the map while deacellerating. On rare occasions the odd build will cruise at this low of a map value in the lower rpms, but that is easily determined by doing a data log.
Last edited by Lonewolf176; Jul 18, 2010 at 12:11 PM.
Stop by the dealer and pick up some new TORCA clamps for the slip on's. Also use some Permatex Copper Silicone on the pipes before you reinstall the mufflers. You are certain to get a good seal this way.
+1 on this i had to do this on my last bike and it worked wonders.remove your slip-ons and put a good amt .of the copper sealant around the surface where your pipes connect let cure for 24 hrs. should do the trick .at least this way you will know if it's a leak .before you spend money for a tune.
Exhaust leak is probally the culprit i had a bad popping issue till i found a leak between the muffler and header i just sealed it up with ultra copper popping all gone.
Mine was popping after my last long trip. Mufflers were both leaking @ Tailpipes. Ultra Copper sealant fixed that. Both header pipes needed re-tightened at engine. All 4 manifold bolts were loose.
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