Cutting a recurved shield?
I cut 1.5" off the bottom of a Windvest recurved shield. Not terribly difficult and you don't need to be as particular as you do when cutting the top since the bottom won't be seen. I used a 3" cut-off saw/wheel hooked to my air compressor. Made quick work of it. Once you cut the bottom off, the wheel can be used to make the slots for the screw holes.
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 409
Likes: 8
From: SE WI
I'm about 10 mi south of Madison. Using the 50' measuring method I can see the object about 2" above the shield so it's not too high. May be more of a matter of me getting used to it. I'll give it a few more miles otherwise a ride to Kenosha via the backroads may be in order 
If you want the bottom cut and still have the box from your shield you can also just mail it I'll be glad to get it back to ya in a few days.
If you think the shield is too high-it probably is. Worse yet, on any kind of longer ride you start to slouch, your spine compresses a little and the bike's seat squishes down a hair. Within an hour I always feel like I've shrunk an inch. I'm biased because I'm only 5'8" and hate looking through a shield, especially at night or in rain. If we were still a helmet state like in the 70's I'd probably have to run a taller shield so the wind wasn't shooting up in a beanie, it's probably be different.
Last edited by Glenn W; Aug 13, 2010 at 08:38 AM.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 15,259
Likes: 5,383
From: Delaware
I agree with the cut it from the bottom crowd. I'd use a dremel and sanding drums to cut the slots the extra depth then use the same tool to cut the excess material away from the lower part of the "tails".
A very special THANKS to Glenn and his windshield cutting ability. It fits perfectly and no one would ever know that the cutting/trimming was anything other than how it came from Freedom. Thanks so much !!! troop
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Stanwood,WA
I got the 10in dark tint freedom as well. At first I thought it was too tall even though I could see 2 or 3 in above the shield it made me kind of paranoid not being able to see directly in front of the bike. But after riding a while I realized it forces you to ride out in front which causes you to ride better. By the way please dont cut the top and lose that beautifully polished edge. KC
I got the 10in dark tint freedom as well. At first I thought it was too tall even though I could see 2 or 3 in above the shield it made me kind of paranoid not being able to see directly in front of the bike. But after riding a while I realized it forces you to ride out in front which causes you to ride better. By the way please dont cut the top and lose that beautifully polished edge. KC
Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,832
Likes: 37
From: Rockland County, NY
With the template all is possible. Easy to trace, cut, finish with a router. On straight shields it's easier to cut the top. If you know how you can still have the edge looking like new. All in the technique.
How great is this forum that we have people like Glenn who have the tools, ability, and the willingness to to a favor for someone he never met.
How great is this forum that we have people like Glenn who have the tools, ability, and the willingness to to a favor for someone he never met.
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 409
Likes: 8
From: SE WI
For the template, I simply trace the bottom of the shield onto a strip of poster board and cut it out. To cut 1" off the bottom, a few pieces of 1" tape on the bottom profile of the shield make an easy guide to tape the strip in the correct place. Using the paper as a stencil edge I use a paint marker pen to trace the new profile, all of the paint line will be cut away later because it's below the template profile. The 3 holes are drilled with a unibit (step drill) and then the shield is cut on a bandsaw. Sanding is vital afterwards, especially in the holes/slots, since striations at 90° to the material will promote cracking.
I took a few pics along the way and will post them if I ever get time.
I agree with the comments on not wanting to cut the top edge on the Freedom Shields, that was the best quality polished edge I have ever seen, period. I've cut dozens of shields and can finish the top with a torch, acetone etc. but the Freedom Shield was far & away the best I've seen. I don't have any connection with them and have a FastAire on my own bike, BTW. Just giving props to a nice-looking product.
I took a few pics along the way and will post them if I ever get time.
I agree with the comments on not wanting to cut the top edge on the Freedom Shields, that was the best quality polished edge I have ever seen, period. I've cut dozens of shields and can finish the top with a torch, acetone etc. but the Freedom Shield was far & away the best I've seen. I don't have any connection with them and have a FastAire on my own bike, BTW. Just giving props to a nice-looking product.
Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,832
Likes: 37
From: Rockland County, NY
If you ever get hold of an old shield you can save the bottom few inches for your template. I've had good luck using the template to draw the lines. Then I cut or drill close to the line on the waste side. Clamp the template to the piece and follow with a trim router. As for polishing, after using 600 grit wet sandpaper I have a huge polishing wheel with jewelers' rouge. You can do pretty well with the sanding and a quick wipe of methylene chloride.
It's real simple to do this on the top but with a curved shield you lose the most important feature. Anyway, thanks for doing it because you raise the level of this forum by your actions.
It's real simple to do this on the top but with a curved shield you lose the most important feature. Anyway, thanks for doing it because you raise the level of this forum by your actions.
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