96 to 103 Upgrade
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Joined: Jun 2009
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96 to 103 Upgrade
Well I am thinking about the upgrade. I have a 2010 SG. So the question is how difficult is the 96 to 103 upgrade to do your self? A little backgound, I am not a pro mechanic, but a fairly good DIY wrench. On my Dyna/EVO, I changed the major work includes: Cam change with new timken bearing, added adjustable pushrods, changed cylinder base gaskets, re-jetted the carb on several occations, and changed the rear drive belt. So that sort of gives everyone a view of what I have done, and the stuff I have had to remove to to the work listed. For example, to swap base gaskets, the heads and cylinders get pulled and replaced.
I realize a PC-V (or similar) is needed, I am certain I can add that and install any Maps as needed, with the 103 upgrade. So is the 96 to 103 upgrage any harder than the things I did on my EVO? I have not done any work on a Twin Cam yet, as it is a 2010.
Any big things I need to be aware of in doing the upgrade?
Is the TC anything tricker than the EVO, or just different?
Are there any specialty tools that I might need for the upgrade?
Is this a Dealer/Profession upgrade that I should avoid?
Feedback. ideas, thoughts are welcome.
I realize a PC-V (or similar) is needed, I am certain I can add that and install any Maps as needed, with the 103 upgrade. So is the 96 to 103 upgrage any harder than the things I did on my EVO? I have not done any work on a Twin Cam yet, as it is a 2010.
Any big things I need to be aware of in doing the upgrade?
Is the TC anything tricker than the EVO, or just different?
Are there any specialty tools that I might need for the upgrade?
Is this a Dealer/Profession upgrade that I should avoid?
Feedback. ideas, thoughts are welcome.
Tourer
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 263
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I am going to do an upgrade this winter as well. I have no experience and I have been told I should have no problem doing it if I take my time and follow the manual. However, I would urge you to go bigger, do a 107, I didnt listen when I did my 103" it wouldn't have cost me much more to do a 107 and it is definatly cheaper than doing a 103 then a 107. Another word of advise if you are going to do 103 with 255 do the manual compression releases. Bigboyzheadporting.com will do the manual compression releases for ~$80 installed. I have the 103 Stage II with the 255's and I am having problems with starting, and will need to add manual compression releases, so I have to take the heads off, hence the upgrade to 107. I thought since I have to go half way there I just as well go the whole way, and do it right, like I should have done the first time.
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Thanks so far
Well any special tools for the SE Cam?
Do I need a Cam Bearing upgrade, similar to an EVO?
Also is there a SE kit for a 107?
Do I need a Cam Bearing upgrade, similar to an EVO?
Also is there a SE kit for a 107?
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No SE kit, but fuel moto is working on a couple of 107 upgrade kits. There's some other aftermarket sources for 106 or 107 upgrades, including S&S and Axtell.
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Road Master
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 872
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From: Niagara Falls Canada
heres pics
well I did the big change out over the winter on mine. 103 with 255 camsI took pictures of everything incase I forgot how things came apart. The last post in here the 107 kit from fuel moto looks pretty interesting. look in the posts in here for fuel moto engine tests and you will see a dyno sheet for the 107 kit, think it was about 110 hp and 114 torque I may a bit off on the numbers.
I POST AS MANY PICS AS i CAN. I'll probably have to post in several pages to get most in .
pulling top end off was fairly easy. getting at rocker and head bolts on back cylinder is a pain, frame is pretty close. getting the push rod rocker arm off is fairly easy but trying to get them back in is a pain. If I recall you have to have the bolts in them as you put them in because once they are in you cant clear the base of the rocker and the seat pan frame.
watch pulling the heads off, there is a o ring on one of the locate pins for oil drainage from the push rods, watch it doesnt fall into the motor when you pull head off. when you pull the cylinders off watch for the same oil ring falling into the crank case. One of mine stuck to the cylinder not realizing they were they before hand and when I noticed one missing off the base I almost crapped on the spot. thank god it was stuck to the bottom of the cylinder head.
I POST AS MANY PICS AS i CAN. I'll probably have to post in several pages to get most in .
pulling top end off was fairly easy. getting at rocker and head bolts on back cylinder is a pain, frame is pretty close. getting the push rod rocker arm off is fairly easy but trying to get them back in is a pain. If I recall you have to have the bolts in them as you put them in because once they are in you cant clear the base of the rocker and the seat pan frame.
watch pulling the heads off, there is a o ring on one of the locate pins for oil drainage from the push rods, watch it doesnt fall into the motor when you pull head off. when you pull the cylinders off watch for the same oil ring falling into the crank case. One of mine stuck to the cylinder not realizing they were they before hand and when I noticed one missing off the base I almost crapped on the spot. thank god it was stuck to the bottom of the cylinder head.
