110" or 103"?
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,342
Likes: 0
From: Western Wisconsin
Most of us have been riding Harleys for a while.
Remember the evo days....and then the twin cam came along with all that power in 88 ci......WOW!!!!
I'm plenty happy with 96 ci.
Will I buy a 103 ci......YOU BET YOUR *** I WILL.
Will I buy a 110 ci......someday.
Remember the evo days....and then the twin cam came along with all that power in 88 ci......WOW!!!!
I'm plenty happy with 96 ci.
Will I buy a 103 ci......YOU BET YOUR *** I WILL.
Will I buy a 110 ci......someday.
Road Master
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 930
Likes: 4
From: Jacksonville, FL
Have to agree with other posters on the 110. If you are going to go through the expense of splitting the cases, you need to just go all out with something really mean and nasty.
Other than that, do the 103 with good tuner and right cams. Very nice power for the real world riding, at least, IMO.
Other than that, do the 103 with good tuner and right cams. Very nice power for the real world riding, at least, IMO.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,523
Likes: 3
From: Illinois
I have to say thanks to you guys for your help/advice because I was really considering doing an SE 103" kit, but after reading all the suggested material I'm probably not going that route now.
Looks like I'm going to wait & see how this 107" kit turns out with the TW-555 because if it performs as good as it looks it'll be just what I'm looking for.
Looks like I'm going to wait & see how this 107" kit turns out with the TW-555 because if it performs as good as it looks it'll be just what I'm looking for.
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 142
Likes: 14
From: Not here
110 or 103
Unless I am missing something, if this is a 2010 you should not have to split the cases to do a 110. The stroke for the CVO 110 is 4.38, the same as a 96. The difference is the bore 4.00 vs 3.75.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,216
Likes: 102
From: Central Illinois
Remember, when you start bumping that compression up too high, pump fuel, even the premium grades, just is not going to cut it. Sure, the spark sensor will probably knock the timing back to stop the spark knock but that defeats the purpose. Or you could use a cam that lowers cylinder pressure at lower rpm's (lot of overlap?) but then your torque goes out the window. In some places out on the road you may only be able to find 89 octane 10% ethanol "premium" gas. Pure crap gas in my opinion.
I would be hesitant to go over 10 to 1 compression on an engine you plan on street riding or touring with.
I would be hesitant to go over 10 to 1 compression on an engine you plan on street riding or touring with.
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Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 690
Likes: 0
From: NYC
I'm planning on staying on the street & touring with it. But, I do ride the Glide hard enough to drag the floor boards though (stock suspension & no extra weight...besides my gut!). I always like to get a little educated about a product that i'm installing/having installed in my bike. I won't put something in there just because someone says it's good. I want to know why it'll be good for me & my style of riding.
That thread on Fuel Moto's cam comparo & 107" kit has been super informative/helpful. I like
That thread on Fuel Moto's cam comparo & 107" kit has been super informative/helpful. I like
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 127
Likes: 1
From: Plainfield, Illinois
I would go with the 103" kit. I just purchased a 2010 FLHTCU last Saturday because I wanted something more comfortable for the wife and I to go out on besides my night train (plus they took close to 5k off the sticker price so they could make room for the 2011's).
I have a stage IV kit on my 2007 night train and that bike is fast enough for me. For the 2010, talking to dealer now - said the 103" kit would be $1500 installed. Since I am having the stage I kit done (pipes and air cleaner), I would save roughly $300 dollars on dyno tuning by doing all at once.
I have until the bike goes in on Tuesday to decice if I want to do the 103" kit. Being a full dressed bagger, bike runs hot to begin with. I am going to install oil cooler and change to synthetic oil at 1K service. Dont know if I will even touch the motor since I have the night train already.
As for your question, I talked to the mechanic who did the work on my night train and he told me to stick with the 96" motor, change the pipes and air cleaner and just ride the thing. Sure the 103" would have more torque and power, however, it would have more heat as well. He told me if I was dead set on doing work to the engine, then go with the stage II 103" kit with S.E. cams. He told me if I start going larger displacement, due to size and weight of bike - and fact that I will be doing two up riding - I am just asking for issues down the road.
Hope this helps.
I have a stage IV kit on my 2007 night train and that bike is fast enough for me. For the 2010, talking to dealer now - said the 103" kit would be $1500 installed. Since I am having the stage I kit done (pipes and air cleaner), I would save roughly $300 dollars on dyno tuning by doing all at once.
I have until the bike goes in on Tuesday to decice if I want to do the 103" kit. Being a full dressed bagger, bike runs hot to begin with. I am going to install oil cooler and change to synthetic oil at 1K service. Dont know if I will even touch the motor since I have the night train already.
As for your question, I talked to the mechanic who did the work on my night train and he told me to stick with the 96" motor, change the pipes and air cleaner and just ride the thing. Sure the 103" would have more torque and power, however, it would have more heat as well. He told me if I was dead set on doing work to the engine, then go with the stage II 103" kit with S.E. cams. He told me if I start going larger displacement, due to size and weight of bike - and fact that I will be doing two up riding - I am just asking for issues down the road.
Hope this helps.