Tour Pack Mounting Bracket Broken
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 199
Likes: 118
From: Pocono Mountains
Tour Pack Mounting Bracket Broken
While washing my bike, I noticed that the Tour Pack moved more than it should. Upon further inspection I found that the bracket was cracked where two of the bolts mount the Tour Pack to the mounting bracket. Not terribly surprised as the bike has 92K miles on it, and has probably been overloaded a time or two.
Bought a new bracket, and attempted to install is last night.
The bolt that attached the bracket to the frame on the left side was missing. Went to the dealer to get a new spacer and bolt. The bolt they have for a replacement is a cap head bolt, not a torx like the original. Call me ****, but I'd prefer the same type bolt on both sides, and would prefer the original style torx.
Any ideas where I could get an original style?
If not, I'll probably to the hardware store and see what I can find in a stainless, or button head type bolt instead of the cap head.
Bought a new bracket, and attempted to install is last night.
The bolt that attached the bracket to the frame on the left side was missing. Went to the dealer to get a new spacer and bolt. The bolt they have for a replacement is a cap head bolt, not a torx like the original. Call me ****, but I'd prefer the same type bolt on both sides, and would prefer the original style torx.
Any ideas where I could get an original style?
If not, I'll probably to the hardware store and see what I can find in a stainless, or button head type bolt instead of the cap head.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 13,023
Likes: 989
From: Just Outside Chicago
Man you should of posted a wanted to buy here on forum,Iv'e got a bracket id given you for $10.00...Oh well....
For a bolt try Menards or Ace hardware both have great selections,Might stay clear of stainless though for your application as it is a soft metal...
For a bolt try Menards or Ace hardware both have great selections,Might stay clear of stainless though for your application as it is a soft metal...
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,652
Likes: 5
From: The sticks in SC
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Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,260
Likes: 44
From: Back woods of Maine
I don't know if you know it or not, but bolts have different grades. Grade 5 is the most common, but grade 8 is much tougher. Recently around here, grade 2 has shown up. Ungraded, from China, NOT GOOD!!!!!! When you buy a bolt, ask the salesman if it is a grade 5 or better, if he can't answer, walk away, walk away, walk away! You should have at least a grade 5 bolt although grade 8 should solve your problem forever, it shouldn 't matter if it is an allen head, a torx, or a cap head screw. For your info, if you look at the head of a bolt, there should be at least three lines on the bolt, arranged 120 degrees apart. That is a grade 5. A grade 8 has 5 lines on the head. If there are NO LINES on the bolt, the bolt is probably an ungraded bolt from CHINA and is anyones
guess as to the quality of the unit. The exception seems to be with allen head bolts which seem to have no easily identifiable marks on them. To get a very consistant product deal with a company like K.L.Jack, not your local discount hardware store, Buy American. Sorry, I'll get off my soapbox. I'm not a dealer, just guy who deals with bolts EVERYDAY and has seen my share of catastrophic failures. I am sick of seeing stuff from China lowering our expectations of what is acceptable.
guess as to the quality of the unit. The exception seems to be with allen head bolts which seem to have no easily identifiable marks on them. To get a very consistant product deal with a company like K.L.Jack, not your local discount hardware store, Buy American. Sorry, I'll get off my soapbox. I'm not a dealer, just guy who deals with bolts EVERYDAY and has seen my share of catastrophic failures. I am sick of seeing stuff from China lowering our expectations of what is acceptable.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 10,675
Likes: 95
From: Billings,Mt.
For your info, if you look at the head of a bolt, there should be at least three lines on the bolt, arranged 120 degrees apart. That is a grade 5. A grade 8 has 5 lines on the head. If there are NO LINES on the bolt, the bolt is probably an ungraded bolt from CHINA and is anyones
Grade 2 An inch series strength grade that has no slash marks and is used for low-carbon steels.
Grade 5 An inch series strength grade that has three slash marks and is used for medium-carbon steels that have been quenched and tempered.
Grade 8 An inch series strength grade that has six slash marks and is used for alloy steels that have been quenched and tempered.
Last edited by 1flhtk4me; Oct 30, 2010 at 06:17 PM.
5th Gear
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
mounting bracket spacer
I know this thread is old, but figured you all could help me out. I took apart my whole tour pack assembly to detail like I never have(I hate cleaning my bike). I don't remember which side the spacers for the mounting bracket go. It would make sense to me that it goes tween the mounting bracket(which has spacers molded into it already) and the frame. That is realllll tight. I can't squeeze the second spacer in(about an 1/8th in. more of squeeze to get er in).
Now I'm thinking that if it was like that coming out, then I'd see some rub/wear on the fender from the mounting bracket being squeezed tight against it, but I don't, so I'm not sure wtf.
If the spacer goes on the outside of the frame(bolt side), what good is it except to compensate for the bolt length? Is it possible that's it?
It's an '02 ultra.
Now I'm thinking that if it was like that coming out, then I'd see some rub/wear on the fender from the mounting bracket being squeezed tight against it, but I don't, so I'm not sure wtf.
If the spacer goes on the outside of the frame(bolt side), what good is it except to compensate for the bolt length? Is it possible that's it?
It's an '02 ultra.