Could someone explain what happens when adjusting the clutch. The short story is I went by the manual and ended up with a little clutch slip in sixth under acceleration. I adjusted for that at the cable adjuster this morning but haven't been out yet to see what if anything that did. My main question is what really goes on when adjusting the clutch.
Backed off the lock nut and adjuster screw, collapsed the cable, ran the adjuster screw in and out a few times, and eventually in to the "slight" resistance, locked the nut and pulled the slack out at the cable adjustment.

Two part deal, what does the adjuster screw do at the basket, and why does it say to run it in to resistance and back out a turn?

Does the cable adjustment take care of slipping under acceleration or is it back at the basket.
Thanks all
keith

 

That's your problem. You didn't back the screw out 1/2 - 3/4 turn after you got it lightly seated. That is putting pressure on the pushrod which pushes on the pressure plate which pushes against the spring which makes the clutch engage and disengage. If you didn't back that adjuster screw out, you can't get full clutch engagement and it will slip.

 

Keith, My understanding of the adjustment process according to the manual is that you turn the adjuster screw in and then back it off 1/2 - 1 full turn and lock it down. Then you adjust the cable so that you have 1/16" - 1/8" end play on the clutch cable housing. When you do this, the clutch is in the engaged position. The adjustments allow for the engine and drive train heating up after running a while and preventing the clutch from slipping. If you didn't back the adjuster screw out or have end play in the clutch cable housing, it would slightly disengage your clutch after the motor heated up. I hope this helps. I'm not a Harley Mechanic but I like to work on my own bike.

 

07RoadHaqg is correct you need to back the screw out a 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. I found I have to go 3/4 to get rid of the tall gear slippage when wicking it. when you go 3/4 it moves the clutch action of the lever closer to the handle bar and the 1/2 turn move it further from the bar and takes any preassure off the rod like Hag said. The slack adjustment in the cable should be taken out and leave 1/16" to 1/8" slop when you pull on the cable away from the clutch pertch. If it is too tight this will again place pressure on the rod which inturn starts engaging the clutch. Make sure to adjust when the bike is cold is another thing that will effect your performance.

 

I made the mistake of adjusting when hot and ended up with a tight adjustment. Clutch slipped in 6th under load. I've had success loosing up the cable adjustment, then adjusting at the clutch basket, loosening the locknut running the screw in until I meet light resistance and backing it off between 3/4 and 1 turn out then locking it down. Then I adjust the cable freeplay and I'm done.

 

Sorry, forgot to say I did loosen off the adjuster at the basket, a full turn.......hoping I just pulled the cable too tight. Backed it off a little, will see in a bit if it was enough. Thanks to all who responded

 

Keith T, I got a good tip from Harley Tech on the best way to adjust your clutch. He said depending on the type of Allen wrench you are using to feel the pressure at the basket, it can be different for different people. He said a fool proof way is to remove your Derby cover when the bike is COLD. Hold the screw with an Allen and break the locknut. back off a few turns. Do the same with the cable adjustment after you have plenty of slack with everything backed off, Take your Allen and insert it into the end of the adjusting screw at the clutch basket. Reach up with your thumb and fore finger and pull the clutch lever against the grip. Holding it there with very light pressure, screw the bolt inward at the clutch basket until you feel the cable try to pull the lever off the grip. when you feel the tug, stop and backoff 1/2 to 3/4 turn and lock it down there. Then adjust the cable adjuster until you have the 1/16 to 1/8 gap. He said about the width of a nichol. Lock everything reinstall your Derby cover and ride. I've adjusted my clutch this way and have no problems. Hope this helps!

 

There seems to be some good advice on clutch adjustment on this thread. Not meaning to jack your thread but can someone tell me why my clutch goes out of adjustment in less than 100 miles. Everything is still tight in the basket, the cable has dbl nuts and are still tight but the cable itself gets loose. I adjust again and it happens again. I'm out of adjustment on both the basket and cable...

 

Next time let it cool and see if it doesn't go back to where you set it. I've noticed mine will get more slack in the cable if I'm riding around town and sitting in traffic and it get's hot. after it cools down, it's back where I set it. Be sure to adjust when cold!

 

I have been trying to troubleshoot a clutch/shift issue and I think/hoping it is as simple as adjusting the clutch basket and cable. In the past I have just adjusted the cable when the bike is cold. My trouble is that the bike (05' FXST) doesn't shift clean in to third gear. After my ride this weekend I can say with some confidence that this issue moves around gears, so it may not be just third. When I shift it feels as though the clutch hasn't fully disengaged when I pull in the lever and up shift. This tends to occur at a higher RPM shift than at a lower RPM. So my question is if I adjust the clutch basket taking 3/4 turn out, will this alleviate dragging shift? I appreciate any feedback you all can offer. I have been on the continual learning curve at wrenching my own bike.