Why do SE255's get such a bad rep ?
Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
From: Wilmington, NC
The 255s yeild the curve tot he left on the dyno sheet, the 254s next, and the 259s last. If you like instant torque and shift at 4000 to 4500, go with 255s. If you shift 4500 to 5500, 254s are best. 259's are best at 4500 to 6000 range. The gets the bike moving rather than HP, which pulls at the upper RPM range. Stop light to stop light- depends on how long the "block" is... shorter runs, go with 255s...
Hope this helps..
Hope this helps..
this cam provides great low-end torque along with
good midrange. A good all-around cam, the Se-254e
is a good match for a Dyna, Softail or light touring bike
- road KingŽ, Street glideŽ or road glideŽ Custom -
when the aggressive rider desires a little more top-end
horsepower. In a 0-60 sprint or 1/4 mile drag race, the
Se-254e-equipped model would pull ahead of an identical
model with a Se-255 cam.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,615
Likes: 50
From: Baton Rouge, LA
Thanks for your response..I am including a quote from the SE manual and this what puzzles me a bit and is what I highlighted in bold and where I am really trying to figure it out.
In a 0-60 sprint or 1/4 mile drag race, the
Se-254e-equipped model would pull ahead of an identical
model with a Se-255 cam.
In a 0-60 sprint or 1/4 mile drag race, the
Se-254e-equipped model would pull ahead of an identical
model with a Se-255 cam.
Additionally would I need to put stronger springs in with the 255?
Would the 254 really out perform the 255 all things equal as the catalog suggest? I don't know but it seems appealing for some improvement @ half the cost. My dealership was recommend the heads and the 259 cam which I might do but I am really trying to minimize the cost initally. Where can I get the dyno charts I am reading about?
Last edited by iclick; Nov 10, 2010 at 03:01 PM.
Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
From: Wilmington, NC
Keep in mind that in a drag race the engine will be near the redline throughout the race except at the start. The 255's are not designed to win dyno shootouts or drag races, but are torque cams that provide a boost in low-end and midrange torque at the expense of the peak-HP boost you would get from most other performance cams. You will get a HP increase over stock with 255's--but not much, maybe 4HP. The upside is that you'll likely see a TQ increase of 8-10 ft/lbs peaking at around 3200 rpms. It's a matter of what you want out of the bike. Do you want a drag racer or something that can pass a truck up-hill in 5th gear effortlessly when in touring trim (loaded) with the old lady on the back?
No. It is a bolt-in cam and no other mods need to be made except adjustments to your EFI map. Most will not even need a stronger clutch spring.
Put the 254's and 255's in two otherwise-stock TC96 bikes, and let's assume they both perform equally with stock cams. In a drag race the 254's will likely pull the 255's soon after starting, while the 255's may pull best at the beginning before the engines approach their redline. OTOH, put both bikes in 5th gear and punch them at 2300 RPM. The 255 bike will likely walk the 254's, probably impressively. It's all in where you want the power. All that said, add some compression to the 254's and it's inherent weakness in the low-end will decrease as compression increases, to a point of course. That, needless to say, costs more money.
No. It is a bolt-in cam and no other mods need to be made except adjustments to your EFI map. Most will not even need a stronger clutch spring.
Put the 254's and 255's in two otherwise-stock TC96 bikes, and let's assume they both perform equally with stock cams. In a drag race the 254's will likely pull the 255's soon after starting, while the 255's may pull best at the beginning before the engines approach their redline. OTOH, put both bikes in 5th gear and punch them at 2300 RPM. The 255 bike will likely walk the 254's, probably impressively. It's all in where you want the power. All that said, add some compression to the 254's and it's inherent weakness in the low-end will decrease as compression increases, to a point of course. That, needless to say, costs more money.
Thanks iclick, makes sense what you are saying. I did talk with the dealership today and they are looking into providing me some dyno torque/hp comparing the three cams from the HQ tech group. If i get paper copies i'll include them in a follow-up post when and if I get them. the dealership did confirm the 254 are a great low end torque with good midrange but I told them I would like to see the numbers before I commit. Having owned a bike with the 255's I am leaning that way especially with the ability to bolt in and then work the heads later. Still looking at 2200 to install cams, bearings, pipes, air breather and tuner.
It is there on mine brother.(IE9beta)
My partner has an 09 Road King 96"with Zippers Redshift 575 cams, Thundermax Autotune controller SE air cleaner and a D&D Fatcat 2-1 with the loudest freakin' baffle I have ever heard on a street bike. 88.6 hp and 98.4 ft.lb. tq. for about $2500 out the door. I have an 09 Ultra with a 103" stage II kit, SE 255"s, flat tops and new barrels, Andrews adj. pushrods, SERT, Big Sucker, V&H Power Duals and Stainless Ride 4" slip-ons with 1 3/4" baffles. $1203 tuned and installed. I rode his, he rode mine. I'm 300lbs+, he's maybe 200. Rolling start in second gear with him on mine and me on his, I could not gain on him at all. We swapped back to our own rides and the same held true. Maybe if we really wanted to take them both way out passed 5000 rpm all that extra money might show itself but neither one rides em' that hard. I have never dyno'd mine so numbers I do not have. Maybe in the spring. My mech says" Nobody dynos top fuelers do they? That factory ECM with a SERT stores all the data he needs to tune without a dyno. How fast is the air blowing into the air cleaner on a dyno vs on the open road? He maintains the best tuners these days don't mess with dynos much. Too much of a static environment thats missing too many real world environmental elements (i.e. humidity,air velocity, temp. changes and so on. What do I know? I'm no tuner. I'm just a married biker on a budget and with her and me on it, with the way I ride where I ride this thing gets it! Pulls like a train from the get go. 6th cruising 60 or so, wanna pass some thing, roll on the throttle and we're gone. Out on the highway rolling 70 or so, things get tight with the traffic, twist the wick and we're outta there. All I need. No need to impress. Screw it, lets ride!
Road Warrior
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,313
Likes: 1
From: Wagoner, Oklahoma
I started with the 255's and did not get the satisfaction that I wanted with my Ultra. So I had the 103 installed and now that made a big difference. I really like my set up the way it is and I am pleased. The numbers below the signiture shows what my dyno curve is for max.....
Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
From: Wilmington, NC
Thanks to all who have responded. It looks like I'll be doing the 255 cams since I have researched and read all the post over and over. I puled the cam data from the SE book and when I really isolated myself and took in tha data it resolved itself, plus having come off a 110 with the 255 I gotta go that way to be safe. With the consideration that it is bolt in with the exhaust and then later upgrade the heads it makes the most sense. Thanks for all the help!
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Road Master
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Rochester, NY
Seat of the pants! What you feel is what you get! I an more than satisfied.
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