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I used to work for a company producing high performance camshafts for all sorts of vehicles and the golden rule was; NEVER fit secondhand cams or lifters. Reason being once fitted, the cam and lifters wear together and become 'matched' . If I was forced to I might risk a very good used cam with NO signs of wear but ALWAYS fit new lifters.
So if you have a collapsed lifter, you would replace the stock cam too? I can see your point on a flat tappet cam/lifter combo that requires the initial 2000 rpm break in period, but that's really not the case on roller cams/lifters. I would agree if these were very high mileage parts, but low mileage used cams are nothing to be concerned about.
I agree the marks are not even where the bearing rides.and todays roller lifters will never know that they are running on a differant cam lobe.I would run them and never think twice about it.
I used to work for a company producing high performance camshafts for all sorts of vehicles and the golden rule was; NEVER fit secondhand cams or lifters. Reason being once fitted, the cam and lifters wear together and become 'matched' . If I was forced to I might risk a very good used cam with NO signs of wear but ALWAYS fit new lifters.
Agree 100+%! For what you saved and the headache you now have to live with thinking if the bike they came from had a lifter out of line, causing a untrue wear surface pattern, and now assuming you install them correctly will there be accelerated wear?
Oh and on the nicks, those are hammer marks from installation, probably used to install the inner bearing. How much did you really save? Sorry, but thats my professional opinion.
That makes no sense.I doubt that anyone would install bearings with the cams much less with a hammer.and the lifters are held in place with pins under the lifter blocks they have no choice but to run straight.I bet many cams have marks on them right out of the box but no one looks.
Its a short cut to install a new cam bearing. One would place the bearing on the end of the cam and tap it in, this way you dont need to buy an installer, but youre supposed to ise the old cam and a dead blow hammer not a steel one.
So if you have a collapsed lifter, you would replace the stock cam too? I can see your point on a flat tappet cam/lifter combo that requires the initial 2000 rpm break in period, but that's really not the case on roller cams/lifters. I would agree if these were very high mileage parts, but low mileage used cams are nothing to be concerned about.
I agree, and many including me have installed used, undamaged cams in their bikes with excellent results. You can't compare the old flat-tappet cams with newer roller cams.
Agree 100+%! For what you saved and the headache you now have to live with thinking if the bike they came from had a lifter out of line, causing a untrue wear surface pattern, and now assuming you install them correctly will there be accelerated wear?
Oh and on the nicks, those are hammer marks from installation, probably used to install the inner bearing. How much did you really save? Sorry, but thats my professional opinion.
You need to get some glasses. Those marks are from before the cams were machined.
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