Busted drive belt
Account Retired
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 3,245
Likes: 12
From: Here
Thanx Zac, i'll remember that. By being minimal i meant i haven't work on one of these since my 79 EG. I used to due all my own work but since breaking my back in 01 and after 5 surgeries without much healing i can't due heavy lifting or tugging. My buddy has been a mechanic all his life and has all the tools (except maybe the clutch hub tool but he can make anything) as he runs his own shop and will be kind enough to do all the heavy stuff while i help where i can. Saving 300.00 bucks to someone on a fixed income at this time of year is a big savings so that's why i.m tackling this myself (with expert help).
I'm glad you have a friend to help you. The Dealer should do it for nothing. You are over there fighting so we can be free to do whatever we choose. Good luck with the belt replacement. Have a nice Thanksgiving.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,774
Likes: 2,606
From: san antonio
Bodean,
Don't listen to the naysayers. I agree with Zach on the difficulty issue; it's not a mentally challenging task but can be a physically challenging one and having your buddy who as been through the drill before is, I would say, a necessity.
You will need the service manual but, as Zach has pointed out, you don't have to follow the manual word for word; the goal is to get the belt between the swing arm and frame and it can be done without moving the swing arm but some don't like to do it that way for fear of damaging the new belt in the process. You can also remove the tranny top cover and lock two gears together (see the video) and save the cost of the tranny pulley locking tool but if your buddy can make stuff, he can make a tool fairly cheap (see the video for a homemade locking tool). You can make the call as to whether you remove the swing arm or not when you get to that point; once you get there, it doesn't take much more to remove it.
I am more interested in why the belt broke; belts should last longer than 30K miles. If you have the broken belt, examine the break and see if you can figure out what happened to cause the belt to break at that point. Examine both pulleys for worn or damanged "teeth". It would be a shame to go through all that work and have the belt snap again after 10K miles. Some suggest replacing both pulleys when replacing a belt but if the pulleys look good, probably not necessary.
A belt for my '02 FLHT is $175 from Zanotti's; don't know what it would be for an '07.
Here is a link to a step by step, photo documented drive belt install that will give you some idea of the work involved and some tips/suggestions you can judge whether beneficial in our case or not. Good luck!
http://www.harleyhog.co.uk/belt%20install%207.htm
Don't listen to the naysayers. I agree with Zach on the difficulty issue; it's not a mentally challenging task but can be a physically challenging one and having your buddy who as been through the drill before is, I would say, a necessity.
You will need the service manual but, as Zach has pointed out, you don't have to follow the manual word for word; the goal is to get the belt between the swing arm and frame and it can be done without moving the swing arm but some don't like to do it that way for fear of damaging the new belt in the process. You can also remove the tranny top cover and lock two gears together (see the video) and save the cost of the tranny pulley locking tool but if your buddy can make stuff, he can make a tool fairly cheap (see the video for a homemade locking tool). You can make the call as to whether you remove the swing arm or not when you get to that point; once you get there, it doesn't take much more to remove it.
I am more interested in why the belt broke; belts should last longer than 30K miles. If you have the broken belt, examine the break and see if you can figure out what happened to cause the belt to break at that point. Examine both pulleys for worn or damanged "teeth". It would be a shame to go through all that work and have the belt snap again after 10K miles. Some suggest replacing both pulleys when replacing a belt but if the pulleys look good, probably not necessary.
A belt for my '02 FLHT is $175 from Zanotti's; don't know what it would be for an '07.
Here is a link to a step by step, photo documented drive belt install that will give you some idea of the work involved and some tips/suggestions you can judge whether beneficial in our case or not. Good luck!
http://www.harleyhog.co.uk/belt%20install%207.htm
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,169
Likes: 9
From: Southern Illinois
Thanx djl, I was passing a semi and heard something hit under bike so i'm assuming it was a rock or road debris. The break is clean straight break that looks like it was cut with a knife. Checking with my indy this morning on prices and recomendations then will call Zonotti's to check their prices also. My buddy's been working on jap and german bikes all his life and has had harley's for the last few years. He changed his just for piece of mind after buying a used bike that needed rebuilt so have lots of confidence in him. Again Thax a heap.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,990
Likes: 9
From: Marina del Rey
do it
...over 31000 on the clock...how long it takes to replace and about what a new belt costs? anything else i should look at while it's down?... I've got a buddy who's changed one once before to give me a hand...
...My buddy's been working on jap and german bikes all his life and has had harley's for the last few years. He changed his...
...My buddy's been working on jap and german bikes all his life and has had harley's for the last few years. He changed his...
Bodean,
Don't listen to the naysayers. I agree with Zach on the difficulty issue; it's not a mentally challenging task but can be a physically challenging one and having your buddy who as been through the drill before is, I would say, a necessity.
You will need the service manual...
Here is a link to a step by step, photo documented drive belt install...
http://www.harleyhog.co.uk/belt%20install%207.htm
Don't listen to the naysayers. I agree with Zach on the difficulty issue; it's not a mentally challenging task but can be a physically challenging one and having your buddy who as been through the drill before is, I would say, a necessity.
You will need the service manual...
Here is a link to a step by step, photo documented drive belt install...
http://www.harleyhog.co.uk/belt%20install%207.htm
OP--Do it yourself and save the money. You're WAY ahead, having an experienced friend who is willing to help; he'll know enough to see it gets done right; he'll have a torque wrench, a lift (?), tie-down straps,...
Get the Moco service manual and parts manual specific to your year/model.
Also there are other threads w/ photos: SurforChop has some photos posted here about changing pulleys... And it might help others if you post photos of your project, here.
While things are apart check your wheel bearings, do the alignment,...Good luck.
Last edited by lo-rider; Nov 23, 2010 at 11:14 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 30,865
Likes: 32,882
From: King George, VA
I would agree with the note about having an experienced friend to guide you through the task. You can't do it without removing the rear fork unless the previous poster was talking about not pulling it all the way out of the frame and leaving the rear wheel on it. You can't do it without removing the inner primary because the mainshaft that the front pulley is on, extends into the clutch assembly inside the primary. You will most likely need a hammer drill, electric or air to get the front pulley off. The nut goes clockwise to loosen but is torqued on with well over 100'lbs. You will need the shop manual so you don't have parts left over.
Good luck.
Good luck.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,459
Likes: 616
I would agree with the note about having an experienced friend to guide you through the task. You can't do it without removing the rear fork unless the previous poster was talking about not pulling it all the way out of the frame and leaving the rear wheel on it. You can't do it without removing the inner primary because the mainshaft that the front pulley is on, extends into the clutch assembly inside the primary. You will most likely need a hammer drill, electric or air to get the front pulley off. The nut goes clockwise to loosen but is torqued on with well over 100'lbs. You will need the shop manual so you don't have parts left over.
Good luck.
Good luck.
No need to remove the front pulley if you're not replacing it. Maybe you were referring to the inner primary chain sprocket. If so, a breaker bar will get it loose. Hammer drill or air should not be necessary. In fact HD warns of using an impact gun on that part because it could damage the magnets on the stator.
Zach
Zach
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 30,865
Likes: 32,882
From: King George, VA
Are you referring to the swing arm when you type "rear fork"? If so, you absolutely can replace the belt without removing it. I wish i would have taken pics when I did it. By tapping the pivot shaft toward the right side of the bike you will create just enough room to slide the belt in without bending or scraping it. If you've never done it, it's hard to picture.
No need to remove the front pulley if you're not replacing it. Maybe you were referring to the inner primary chain sprocket. If so, a breaker bar will get it loose. Hammer drill or air should not be necessary. In fact HD warns of using an impact gun on that part because it could damage the magnets on the stator.
Zach
Zach
No need to remove the front pulley if you're not replacing it. Maybe you were referring to the inner primary chain sprocket. If so, a breaker bar will get it loose. Hammer drill or air should not be necessary. In fact HD warns of using an impact gun on that part because it could damage the magnets on the stator.
Zach
Zach
I broke two 1/2" drive breaker bars trying to loosen the nuts on mine. A hammer drill can be used to loosen them, but use the torque wrench to tighten them.