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HotRoc54, how about a picture from the rider side; be interested to see the fitment between the painted add-on and the actual mirror edge.
If I had a close-up of my painted fairing mirrors, it'd show they're painted the like the add-ons; the painter masked the "bulge" (that you see as unpainted plastic on HR54's mirrors) and base.
Carl
Here is the best picture I have from that view. Hope it's what your looking for.
As always the price for painting panels swings greatly from they guy next door working as a part time body and fender man to the pros who vary in talent. Painting plastics correcty is an expensive procees and the difference in added materials/complexity can raise the price significantly.
The correct process for plastic would be to degrease the panel with a plastic friendly solvent, then spray panel with adhesion promoter. Next low solvent/build primer sealer followed by color and any custom graphics. Flexall should then be added with the clear coat. The clear coat flash process needs to be slowed in order for the clear to level correctly. The idea is if you can slow the process enough and not cause any runs you will not need to buff (minimal buffing). Buffing plastics can cause cracks in the clear because of the flexibility of plastic. If the process goes correctly you have a jewel to add to your bike...if not depending on the failure the piece my be trash.
The point being the cheapest may not always be the best for the long haul.
I shipped mine to the USA, to Dale @ Art Attack Signs, he did a great job and at an outstanding price. ($400) He provided everything, all I had to do was get the fairing and cap to him. I'll try and add a picture and see if it works or not.
The wifes bike cost $525. The price was high because her name was put on it, 2 tone color and pinstripping. When the local dealers need one painted they send it there. My inner fairing was painted by them (before I bought the bike) so I saw the quality work they did. The place is called Custom Painted Vehicles in Franklin Wi. Very friendly and helpful people.
When I went to pick up the parts the lady told me they forgot to charge me for the cost of painting the mirrors (I prepaid when I dropped off the parts) $75 each. Offered to pay and she said not to worry about it....it was there mistake. Cant beat that.
Like others have said on here...cheapest may not be the best.
Just remember one thing. Buying the most expensive paint & paying the most expensive painter to paint your fairing will be money wasted if its not prepped right. That pretty paint will peel right off that fairing at some point in its life if not prepped properly. What ever paint brand(DuPont,PPG,House of Kolor) you decide to go with should have tech sheets explaining the process of prepping & painting raw plastic parts. If you & your painter follow those tech sheet steps, your fairing should look great for life! Good Luck with it!
I paid 500.00 for mine. I also had the cow bells (uppers) and the air dam below the fairing paint matched. Like the new SE bikes are done. They painted all my speaker, gauge bezels gloss black and then striped the inner fairing like the rest of the bike.
I opted not to paint my factory mirrors as for some of the same reasons given earlier. I will be purchasing some wicked inner fairing mirrors http://www.jpcycles.com/product/760-561
I paid 500.00 for mine. I also had the cow bells (uppers) and the air dam below the fairing paint matched. Like the new SE bikes are done. They painted all my speaker, gauge bezels gloss black and then striped the inner fairing like the rest of the bike.
I opted not to paint my factory mirrors as for some of the same reasons given earlier. I will be purchasing some wicked inner fairing mirrors http://www.jpcycles.com/product/760-561
Wow, nice work! You just gave me a great idea of keeping the black around the gauges!
You have a nice bike! Looks great!
Are the JP mirror mounts the same as HD's? Don't want to drill the fairing again.
Also, whilst on the topic, it was mentioned in a thread that the template that comes with the mirrors puts them too low on the inner
I went to te dealer and sat on a SG and they seemed fine so I stuck with the template. Now I realise I should have lifted then a half inch or so. I wonder if the template is the same as factory location?
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