I have a good friend of mine trying to do a 103 build. He wants to keep stock heads just do the 103 with a cam. My main question is the builder had called him today and told him he has 7 thousandths run out and it is to much to do even a hydraulic cam. Is it suicide to have someone else do this build and leave the cranks with that much run out? Would he just have nightmares or would it be fine? The builder wants $3,100 to tear it down and fix his cranks which right there he is already over his budget. I got lucky with my build and only had a .001 so i was able to do gear driven cams he isn't getting lucky with his at all. Any help would be great. Thank you

 

There must be a disconnect about that price, you sure that isn't the total with the original build, plus the crank repair? I'm sure he could get an aftermarket or reman crank for less than $3k. This is all part of the joy of building an engine, Harley or Hyundai, they all have little hidden surprises to empty your wallet. Eh, whadda ya gonna do.

 

Im not sure if that included the installing his 103 and and cam. I believe it was just to fix his cranks. My main question was if he would be ok doing the 103 and cams with .007 run out??

 

I wouldn't. With that much run out I would think he would've had quite a bit of vibration even running stock?

 

I think that builder is trying to stroke him.
That crank can be welded/trued for $450 bucks.
He wants $3100 to diassemble/reassemble the crank into the case?
WOW!

http://www.revperf.com/TwinCam/twinCamCrank.html

 

You could still run chain drives, but if that was my motor , I would get the crank serviced.

 

The HD acceptable tolerance for crank runout is .012
If your friend is staying with chain driven cams, he's well within spec.
If he converts to gear driven, no more than .003 runout.

Excessive runout is simply going to wear the tensioners out faster.

Your friend doesn't have to get the crank trued, but with his runout, it's advisable.

 

First, get the price and work scope sorted out. Your guy may already have it but he needs a written cost estimate so he can see what he is being charged for the crank work.

$3100 for a big bore kit (inclulding cams), adjustable pushrods and associated R/R labor, R/R labor to remove inner/outer primary and the lower unit, split the cases, supply and install new crank, gaskets, seals, oil and filter and put her all back to together sounds a tad heavy to me by about $300-$500 depending on shop labor rate but may not be that far out of line for a dealer. You have to remember that a lot of R/R labor is stripping the bike down, i.e., removing exhaust/heat shields, floor boards, fuel tank, A/C TB and intake, rocker covers and boxes, etc., it does take time to take it off and put it back.

Your guy needs to bite the bullet and take advanatage of this situation and have his crank trued and welded. There are two OEM cranks, one is about $700 and the other about twice that; the crank pin is not welded in either and if he lets the dealer install another POS OEM crank, he could have the same problem next year. Have the dealer send the lower unit to Hobal Brothers, SBC or Rev Performance and have the OEM crank trued, balanced and welded.

With that much runout, he shoud definitely replace the oil pump and the pinion shaft busing in the cam plate.

Hard to comment on cost without seeing the work order. Can you scan and post a copy?

 

Trying to sort out 'secondhand' queries like this is pretty hopeless frankly. Get him to log on here so we can get the story from the horse's mouth!

He is in spec for fitting a hydraulic/chain upgrade. Forget gears. Forget spending $3k on a near stock motor, as he could get a serious upgrade for that from a competent tuner (there are HDF sponsors worth contacting).

 

I am looking at the spec sheet now. $3,100 crank work only that is tearing the hole bike down and rebuilding. He wanted them to instal the 103 and a cam so with the 3,100 plus installing the cam which he would buy from them he did supply them with a 103 just needs to buy the cam pushrods etc he is around 4 grand. That just seems out of control to me. To do a stage 2 and crank work it is $5,204. A stage 4 is $7,900 with cranknwork. Who is a a good builder that he could just take his motor out and have them redo the cranks and instal the 103 and and cams for a more reasonable price??