Install Chubby 0575 Myself
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 346
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From: San Diego
Install Chubby 0575 Myself
Folks, I need some advice, I finally have everything I need to do my Chubby Bars and I can't stop thinking that I should be able to put them on myself, dealer wants like 8 hrs labor and I don't doubt it will take all day but that is some serious cash, that I could be spending on more chrome or other stuff. I am mechanically inclined but just not sure if this is too much to bit off, what do you think?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,467
Likes: 2,996
From: Charleston, SC
You won't need to solder anything with the 575's if you use a needle or paperclip as a pin extractor for the molex connectors but do make sure you have a +4 clutch cable ready. +2 or +4 Brake and throttle cables (if not TBW) helps too but not mandatory.
I've done countless bars and I'm going to tell you that it's going to take "awhile", especially if you've never done it before. Just take your time and look up some of the threads on here that go over it. Probably 100's.
Good luck.
lp
I've done countless bars and I'm going to tell you that it's going to take "awhile", especially if you've never done it before. Just take your time and look up some of the threads on here that go over it. Probably 100's.
Good luck.
lp
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,439
Likes: 884
From: 'Noke, VA
It's an all-day job the first time you do it, and it really helps if you've got a spare set of hands. I can't remember if I did a +2 or +4 on the brakes, but I know the clutch is +4. Just take your time, diagram your wires, and take pictures of how things are before you start moving things around.
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 224
Likes: 21
From:
I have done this several times. It is definitely a job you can do yourself. A couple of things to kep in mind.
#1 Consider changing your bushings while you have the bars off.
#2 purchase the Harley or any aftermarket solid clamp to replace the two piece clamp that holds the stock bars.
#3 Once the bars are off you will need to remove the connector housings from the wiring harnesses. There are two. One black and one Grey.
#4 In order to remove the housing you will need a needle nose plier to remove the plastic cover that shrouds the connector pins.
#5 Once you remove the plastic cover you can push the wires up and twist and pull and the wire and pin will come out of the housing.
#6 Make note of the color and position of the wires when removing them so you can replace them later
Bottom line: DO NOT CUT THE WIRES. Do it right and remove and replace as designed. Solder is a potential problem down the road and doing it as descibed above is not difficult.
Well worth the money you going to save.
PS: pick up a couple of extra pins in case one breaks when your removing and replacing them.
#1 Consider changing your bushings while you have the bars off.
#2 purchase the Harley or any aftermarket solid clamp to replace the two piece clamp that holds the stock bars.
#3 Once the bars are off you will need to remove the connector housings from the wiring harnesses. There are two. One black and one Grey.
#4 In order to remove the housing you will need a needle nose plier to remove the plastic cover that shrouds the connector pins.
#5 Once you remove the plastic cover you can push the wires up and twist and pull and the wire and pin will come out of the housing.
#6 Make note of the color and position of the wires when removing them so you can replace them later
Bottom line: DO NOT CUT THE WIRES. Do it right and remove and replace as designed. Solder is a potential problem down the road and doing it as descibed above is not difficult.
Well worth the money you going to save.
PS: pick up a couple of extra pins in case one breaks when your removing and replacing them.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 346
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From: San Diego
Thanks for all the tips and encoragement, I have abs and an independent and the dealer said if I change the lowers they have to reset the abs, I have the lowers so I guess that part should be installed by the dealer but I think I can handle all the rest.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,439
Likes: 884
From: 'Noke, VA
Here's the deal with ABS....You can do a normal bleed that will get enough air out to safely ride the bike. A dealer will charge you (usually) half an hour's labor to hook the bike up to the DT and finish the bleed.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,467
Likes: 2,996
From: Charleston, SC
That said, if you only replace the lower line (and not the top one) you should be good in bleeding it normally and be just fine. Point is you don't want to get air into the ABS module. You do that and you need to see your dealer. If you replaced the top line you would have to reverse bleed it (push fluid up through the lines to the master cylinder using a syringe) in order to avoid a trip to the dealer. I've done both and it's a pain in the *** either way really.
Regardless, for safety's sake, best to just bleed it until you get some good pressure like 05train said and then take it to the dealer anyway...
Also, I haven't seen the connector pins come out by twisting them. It usually takes a needle or paper-clip to trip the pin release. Not saying twisting them will not work, only that I've never tried.
lp
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Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 346
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From: San Diego
Sound advice, thanks 05 Train
lp, agree, everything I have seen says samething, you need to get the wire to release by inserting a paperclip or something along those lines, they sell a tool but basically the same thing.
Do the wires from the bars run into the fairing and that is where you extend the wires?
lp, agree, everything I have seen says samething, you need to get the wire to release by inserting a paperclip or something along those lines, they sell a tool but basically the same thing.
Do the wires from the bars run into the fairing and that is where you extend the wires?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,467
Likes: 2,996
From: Charleston, SC
Sound advice, thanks 05 Train
lp, agree, everything I have seen says samething, you need to get the wire to release by inserting a paperclip or something along those lines, they sell a tool but basically the same thing.
Do the wires from the bars run into the fairing and that is where you extend the wires?
lp, agree, everything I have seen says samething, you need to get the wire to release by inserting a paperclip or something along those lines, they sell a tool but basically the same thing.
Do the wires from the bars run into the fairing and that is where you extend the wires?
Of course, if you have wire extensions from like Namz...that works too but you really don't need them.
lp