compensator bolt
So I'm taking apart the primary drive on my 07 Road King to replace the inner bearing. The manual says to discard the compensator bolt. Why is this? Anybody agree with this?
They would like to sell you a new one..Locktite and a torque wrench are needed.
I think that the logic is that once torqued to spec, the bolt has been "stressed" or "stretched" and may not be as effective if used mutiple times.
Plus they want to sell you a new one.
Might as well upgrade to the SE anyway while you are in there. It comes with a new bolt.
Plus they want to sell you a new one.
Might as well upgrade to the SE anyway while you are in there. It comes with a new bolt.
Might want to make a note.
When you take the compensator bolt out. Clean the threads super good with a wire brush and git all the locktite out of the threads.
Clean the sprocket shaft hole.
When you put it together make sure everthing is seated. Put Red locktite on the compensator bolt and make sure you Have a torque wrench that goes I think its 167ft lbs.
Know they are expensive but sears has a digital one that is good.
When you take the compensator bolt out. Clean the threads super good with a wire brush and git all the locktite out of the threads.
Clean the sprocket shaft hole.
When you put it together make sure everthing is seated. Put Red locktite on the compensator bolt and make sure you Have a torque wrench that goes I think its 167ft lbs.
Know they are expensive but sears has a digital one that is good.
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I recently replaced my inner primary seal and had to remove the bolt. The replacement was around $5.00. Cheap considering all the work. The other 5 inner primary bolts with captive washers were about $7.00 ea and you need 5. Gaskets are another $50. The seal is less than $5.00. My bearing and race were fine so I did not replace those. As said, the compensator bolt is right hand thread, torque to 100 lbs, one turn back to the left then torque to 140 lbs. The clutch bolt is left hand thread to 80 lbs with red Loctite.







