Hey all

So, I'm thinking about a cam for my 2010 Ultra. Already got the Fuel Moto head pipe, dyno tune slip-ons, and PCV. I'd like to get a little more "oomph" out of the 96" motor without getting into headwork and all that jazz yet. Since I use this bike to take the wife on trips, I don't want to go too crazy and loose any kind of reliability. I'd just as soon do nothing than introduce problems - especially on a bike that has plenty of warranty left.

I'm a modest wrench, don't think I want to take on a cam swap on this thing though.

So, should I be considering a cam, if so - which?

Local indy, talking about my Road King was talking about titanium vs. steel push rods, opinions on that?

What should I look to pay to get the work done?

As always, thanks for the collective wisdom.

~bc

 

Get the Woods TW 555's or the TW6-6 those cams really wake the 96's up, if you can change your oil you can do your cams, do a search and check out atrain68 cam install write up, it's a-z

 

Had no problem doing my cams myself with basic tool and basic knowledge. Very happy with the performance increase from woods TW5-6's.

 

Did the SE 255 cams myself and may be helpful for your warranty does wake em up pretty good. I went with the SE tapered adjustable push rods also nice stuff. But there are many out there to choose from in cams and push rods but if your not going to do it yourself and want to keep up your warranty I would consider the SE parts and unfortunetly maybe have the stealer do it for you if you have a good one.

 

Many SE cams can re-use stock pushrods... get a 2011 SE catalog and read the descriptions on cams...255 or 254 or 204 come to mind. Low, mid, or upper rpm torque is the question you should ask yourself.... $200 to $300 on labor....plus cost of parts....

 

TW-555 in my 2010 FLTRX and I have been more than happy with the performance gains.

 

Did a set of Screamin Eagle 203's. Nice little bolt in RV type cam. Gives you a little more torque on the low end, which is what a heavy bagger riding 2 up needs. They are chain drive and will work with existing cam plate, shoes, chains, lifters, pushrods, etc. and no head work needed. Won't break the bank either. But since you are going to tear her down that far, why not a SE cam plate, so you can go with hydraulic lifters. SE 204's are similar, but they give you more torque at the mid RPM range. I firmly believe in low end torque with a heavy bike.

 

Thanks guys