I bought 4qts. today $7.99ea. Mobil1Vtwin 20w50 fully synthetic.

 

Thanks 69cj, I saw that and plan to pick some up. ( What I need is someone to come up with a 30W-60 to keep the sewing machine noise down when it gets hot outside!)

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v twin is NOTformulated for air cooled motors. it is simply safe for use on clutch.

 

I'm talking engine temp range...150 to 310 Air Cooled vs 180 to 210 radiator cooled, not ambient temp.

I'm no expert but from what I've read, synthetic 15W-50 or 20w-50 are both 50 weight oils. ( Mineral 20w-50 oil by contrast is a 20 weight with additives to protect like a 50 wt.) Mobil says that VTwin protects better outside of the 180-210 range.

I don't know if they're telling the truth or not, honestly.

 

the W does not stand for Weight...........it stands for Winter.....

 

Since most wear in an engine occurs in the first few seconds of operation after a cold start, I would think better flow when cold would be an asset. The protection of engines with "looser tolerances" is more than adequate with both oils' ability to protect like a 50-wt. when hot. You will not incur more wear using a 15w50 over a 20w50, all other factors being equal. If anything the 15w50 may actually provide better overall lubrication because it has more friction modifiers in the formula.

Much of the oil recommendation is to allow the mfr. to display a higher gas-mileage rating, not only to spur sales but to better satisfy the government's CAFE requirements.

Much ado is made over oil brands and types, and the truth is that any synthetic oil near HD's viscosity spec is fine. That would include 14w50, 20w50, 20w60, etc. I know people with high-mileage bikes who use M1 15w50, as well as a few who use the much-maligned Syn3. It's all good, but IMO the biggest factor for choosing the right oil is cost. Ask an oil engineer who is willing to give you a non-corporate opinion.

I might as well tell this story again for the 10th time: A friend and very-qualified tech performed a BB upgrade on his and a friend's bikes, both 2000 FLH's. He had used M1 15w50 in his bike and the other guy 20w50 Amsoil MC oil. When they disassembled the pertinent componets of both bikes there was no visible or measurable wear on cylinders, pistons, or valve-train components. The M1 bike had 60k and the Amsoil 50k on the clock.

 

I appreciate the advice guys, Thanks

 

Where are you getting these numbers? I have an oil-temp gauge on one car and one MC and the car runs higher oil-temps than the bike. The bike's oil-temps do fluctuate a bit more, but well within the tolerance of any synthetic or even fossil oil. I don't have a head-temp gauge on the car but would bet it doesn't run cooler than the bike, which typically stays between 225-275° (front head). Any oil can tolerate these conditions.

No, there is no separate viscosity criteria for synthetic and fossil oils. Basically the lower number means the base-stock is 15-wt., a reflection of how well it flows when cold, and the higher number the protection spec when hot. The 15w50 obviously has more VI's in the formula to pull the base-stock up to protect like a 50-wt. oil, but neither is considered extreme by today's standards. OTOH I wouldn't pick a 5w50 for a Harley. Thirty years ago I would've preferred a 15w40 over a 10w40 because of the viscosity spread, as the chemistry wasn't as mature back then as it is today, but nowadays I wouldn't consider a 30-35 point spread to be extreme.

FWIW, I use a 20w50 in my bike, but not because of the viscosity rating. The oil I use is "car oil," i.e. not MC-specific, and I used this oil in my old Evo which I rode for >100k miles with the static compression staying the same over nine years of operation.
The engine was never worked on except for a cam upgrade.

Where are you seeing this quote? I would like to read it, as my sources at Exxon-Mobil tell me a different story. Let me say that I'm not an engineer or an expert, but I've studied oil for decades, read what I can find on the subject, and like to talk to people in the business who know the science and would rather propagate that over marketing hype. There are some who will do that and you just need to find them.

Like all oil manufacturers, the brand of oil I use offers a MC-specific product, but I won't use it because I know it isn't better and costs 2X as much as their "car oil" of the same viscosity.

 

Thank you for helping to propagate correct information!

 

You can trust them to maximize their profits. If they can sell an oil for $8 that's almost identical to another that costs <$5 by simply changing a label and a carefully worded but vague marketing claim, do you think they will let that opportunity pass them by?