Clutch/Brake Lever Replacement.
You need snap ring pliers. You also need a set of needle nose vice grips. They aren't necessary if you have a friend to hold the clutch cable for you while you do the swap. While you have the levers off you should oil your cables. Outside of that it is pretty simple. If you have any questions pm me I have done this quite a few times now. If you can wait a few days, I have a set of levers on the big brown truck right now and I can post pictures of my install.
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,221
Likes: 9
From: Monmouth, OR
Okay, got the retaining ring pliers, replaced the clutch handle. I'm confused about the brake handle. Instructions I find say to place a cardboard insert between the brake lever and the housing. The pictures show the cardboard, but the shape of the levers (old and new) aren't flat where it shows the cardboard in the pictures (even in the manual). So I'm not sure exactly where to place the insert. Definitely don't want to break the brake switch. Any clues? Looks like it's a pretty straight forward swap otherwise.
Last edited by sanlyn; Apr 5, 2011 at 09:16 PM.
I don't remember doing anything with cardboard on any of my installs??? Does your bike have ABS or anything new and fancy? It should be just pop the snap ring knock the pin out, grease and insert into new brake lever, install into houseing replace snap ring. The brake lever should be the easy one if you have already done the clutch.
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,221
Likes: 9
From: Monmouth, OR
I don't remember doing anything with cardboard on any of my installs??? Does your bike have ABS or anything new and fancy? It should be just pop the snap ring knock the pin out, grease and insert into new brake lever, install into houseing replace snap ring. The brake lever should be the easy one if you have already done the clutch.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 10,449
Likes: 46
From: Roswell, GA
It's also a good idea to have a couple of snap rings on hand in case you mess up the OEM ones while removing them.
Good luck with your project.
Carl
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 149
Likes: 0
From: SE PA
Yeah I agree that the pic in the manual doesn't help. Once everything is loose you'll see the rubber boot over the switch on the inside of the lever right where you'd expect a switch button to be. Slide the cardboard between the switch and the lever before you pull the pin. I think you'll be fine without it. Just be gentle.
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,221
Likes: 9
From: Monmouth, OR
I hope you will wait until you get the SM or more complete direction than posted here before undertaking this project. The brake side is much easier than the clutch side where you have to create slack in the cable at the clutch adjustment turnbuckle under the boot where the cable passes in front of the motor, then readjust the clutch freeplay when you're done.
It's also a good idea to have a couple of snap rings on hand in case you mess up the OEM ones while removing them.
Good luck with your project.
Carl
It's also a good idea to have a couple of snap rings on hand in case you mess up the OEM ones while removing them.
Good luck with your project.
Carl
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