Bleeding Brakes oh crap
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,275
Likes: 241
From: Highlands, NJ
Bleeding with ABS?
If you bleed back to the ABS module, you will have to go to the dealer to get the ABS module reset. They have to hook up to their computer and do a reset.
Nice little feature of the ABS system I found out about after I changed the brake lines. Good Ol' MOCO.
If you bleed back to the ABS module, you will have to go to the dealer to get the ABS module reset. They have to hook up to their computer and do a reset.
Nice little feature of the ABS system I found out about after I changed the brake lines. Good Ol' MOCO.
Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 583
Likes: 2
From: Eaton, OH
Bleeding with ABS?
If you bleed back to the ABS module, you will have to go to the dealer to get the ABS module reset. They have to hook up to their computer and do a reset.
Nice little feature of the ABS system I found out about after I changed the brake lines. Good Ol' MOCO.
If you bleed back to the ABS module, you will have to go to the dealer to get the ABS module reset. They have to hook up to their computer and do a reset.
Nice little feature of the ABS system I found out about after I changed the brake lines. Good Ol' MOCO.
If you change master cylinders or brake lines, then you may introduce air unless you use one of the back flush procedures to push fluid from the caliper through the ABS system and back up to the fluid reservoir.
I have the service manual and it mentions using the digital technician to help flush the ABS module but it does not say what it actually does. Perhaps someone on here can explain. I would guess that it just actuates the module to open and close the valves or something to ensure you get all the air out of the system.
I've flushed my brakes twice now and was careful not to introduce any air and have had no issues with the ABS or the brakes. If anything they actually felt firmer the first time I bled them.
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 551
Likes: 0
From: Texas
Speed bleeders are the way to go! I had them on my Vette.
Part numbers can be found at: http://www.speedbleeder.com/Motorcycle%20Sizes.htm
For the 08 & Up Ultra Classic Electra Glides the part numbers are:
Front & Rears: SB8125L
Part numbers can be found at: http://www.speedbleeder.com/Motorcycle%20Sizes.htm
For the 08 & Up Ultra Classic Electra Glides the part numbers are:
Front & Rears: SB8125L
forget the funnels, hoses, bungees and so forth. This is the quick and easiest method. IMHO
Last edited by jackja25; Apr 19, 2011 at 02:22 PM. Reason: just wanted to add a return
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,216
Likes: 102
From: Central Illinois
On H-D front brakes, the only bleeding you should ever need to do is gravity bleeding. If you can mount the bike on a jack, then it is simple as heck.
Take the reservoir cap off, open the left caliper bleeder, put a hose on it into a bottle, and let it start draining. Keep the reservoir topped off till it has run through about twice. Then shut the left caliper and do the right. Then fill up, put on the cap and check the lever, Should be solid. Pump it a bunch of times if you want to make sure. Thats all you need to do.
The rear is more difficult, but pressing the lever (without bottoming it out) and opening and closing the bleeder will work, just takes longer.
Take the reservoir cap off, open the left caliper bleeder, put a hose on it into a bottle, and let it start draining. Keep the reservoir topped off till it has run through about twice. Then shut the left caliper and do the right. Then fill up, put on the cap and check the lever, Should be solid. Pump it a bunch of times if you want to make sure. Thats all you need to do.
The rear is more difficult, but pressing the lever (without bottoming it out) and opening and closing the bleeder will work, just takes longer.
Yes, i do understand that they are the same length. The reason why i said that was, I've known air bubbles to trap themselves on the left side if it's done first. Then having to re-bleed it. This doesn't occur everytime but, since i've done it this way,i've had no problem.
Last edited by stevelonewolf; Apr 19, 2011 at 03:54 PM.
Although this is true, I found my 07 manual to say to do the right one first than the left one. The only reason I can think of is that they have the shared lines at the manifold tee.
I use a vacuum bleeder to replace all the fluid, then pump the levers and make sure there is no air in the lines
I use a vacuum bleeder to replace all the fluid, then pump the levers and make sure there is no air in the lines
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 265
Likes: 11
From: Montréal, Québec, Canada
To avoid having brake fluid all over the brake pads if the hose falls off while bleeding, I tye wrap the bleeder hose on the bleeder nipple. I won't get caught another time.
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 9,850
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From: Sacramento, CA.
Just a thought, per HD Service Manual change brake fluid every 2 years. If you have ABS you should have the dealership hook up there Digital Technician II to make sure all air is removed. Your ABS may not work properly.
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,336
Likes: 415
From: Southern Maryland
That's what is bothering me. I did the front RH side, and just once heard that awful sucking sound of air when the master cyl got too low when I was leaning down to loosen the bleed nipple. I added more fluid and pumped the lever several times and air came up out of the line into the master cyl. I did this until no more air came up. Not sure if I got it all out, but decided that no way could I do the other side unless I had a helper.