Harsh upshift from neutral to first
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 287
Likes: 6
From: N/A
Thanks for the responses.
To RollaMo:
- both wheels are on the ground, the clutch handle pulled in and the bike lurches forward. Feels like I could just keep going down the road if I didn't have the front brake handle also pulled in.
Thans also to twincam47's for ths info. Thedealer told me that was because the cop bikes have an extra disk in the clutch to help prevent clutch failure during slow speed manuevers.
I'll let her warm up a bit more in the morning but I'll also check that adjustment
Thanks again
To RollaMo:
- both wheels are on the ground, the clutch handle pulled in and the bike lurches forward. Feels like I could just keep going down the road if I didn't have the front brake handle also pulled in.
Thans also to twincam47's for ths info. Thedealer told me that was because the cop bikes have an extra disk in the clutch to help prevent clutch failure during slow speed manuevers.
I'll let her warm up a bit more in the morning but I'll also check that adjustment
Thanks again
Last edited by semiret; May 11, 2011 at 01:39 PM.
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 861
Likes: 136
From: Wisconsin
It wouldn't hurt to adjust the clutch. I have somewhat the same problem. What I do is, before putting it in gear, with the clutch in, and the motor running, I push the bike backwards out of the garage, that way the friction discs, and drive discs are traveling in different directions, with this separation of discs, the transmission engages nice. Hope this helps.
JONNIEROCK
JONNIEROCK
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 20,616
Likes: 4,440
From: anacoco, la
Wet clutches (running in oil) do that.
Imagine two DVD discs, one on top of the other, with a layer of motor oil between them. Try to pick up or turn the top one. They are going to act as if they are stuck together. That is what it is like in your primary case.
I often start mine in gear, while holding both brakes on. When I hit the starter, the bike lurches forward a little, but it breaks that stiction, and no clunk going into gear.
Imagine two DVD discs, one on top of the other, with a layer of motor oil between them. Try to pick up or turn the top one. They are going to act as if they are stuck together. That is what it is like in your primary case.
I often start mine in gear, while holding both brakes on. When I hit the starter, the bike lurches forward a little, but it breaks that stiction, and no clunk going into gear.
wait for your high idle to drop down some before you shift into first otherwise you will have a lot of grinding and clunking. it will still clunk when you shift into first, but nowhere near as bad.
Last edited by skratch; May 11, 2011 at 03:33 PM.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,599
Likes: 421
From: Lansing mi
Funny how some Harley's the clunk goes away with certain oil's. I have never had that luck.
When I got my first Harley 2000 1200-C the clunk drove me nuts after years on Yamaha that didn't clunk so hard.
By the time I got my 06 I started to try different primary oil's every 5000 miles, I did this over about 3 years.
I cant remember all of them I know I had Red Shockproof or something like that, Moble-1 20/50 and 75/90 gear, Amsoil, the last one was Bell-ray. Plus what ever the Dealer put in at the 1000 service.
With all of that, I still had the clunk, in the end I stayed with Amsoil because I can get that by the case from a friend. I got to admit that sometimes after I switched it would seem better but in time they was so close it was hard to tell a deference. My new RK also jumps forward hard when I drop to first when it's cold. My other 3 Harley's didn't do that so hard. I don't feel this is normal and I hope after the 1000 mile service they will adjust it out.
But one thing I can say is now, after 4 Harley's, I'm to the point that if my Harley didn't clunk, I think I would get worried.
When I got my first Harley 2000 1200-C the clunk drove me nuts after years on Yamaha that didn't clunk so hard.
By the time I got my 06 I started to try different primary oil's every 5000 miles, I did this over about 3 years.
I cant remember all of them I know I had Red Shockproof or something like that, Moble-1 20/50 and 75/90 gear, Amsoil, the last one was Bell-ray. Plus what ever the Dealer put in at the 1000 service.
With all of that, I still had the clunk, in the end I stayed with Amsoil because I can get that by the case from a friend. I got to admit that sometimes after I switched it would seem better but in time they was so close it was hard to tell a deference. My new RK also jumps forward hard when I drop to first when it's cold. My other 3 Harley's didn't do that so hard. I don't feel this is normal and I hope after the 1000 mile service they will adjust it out.
But one thing I can say is now, after 4 Harley's, I'm to the point that if my Harley didn't clunk, I think I would get worried.
Last edited by GPHDXLC; May 15, 2011 at 08:36 PM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,993
Likes: 20
From: Southeast GA
I have messed with the clunk for years and have come to the following conclusion: The five speed trannys don't clunk nearly as bad as the 6 speeds do and using gear oil in the tranny (I use Amsoil), while it won't get rid of it, will make it less harsh.
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Tourer
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 251
Likes: 0
From: Australia
Mine has that clunk too, normal. If you take it to the dealer and ask the same question they will say its normal, but finally something they say that is normal. After riding a few K's when things are warmed up its silk smooth, to the point that I wish it had some slight clunk as it feels like it hasnt gone into gear cos of its smoothness.
