4509 driving lamp
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
From: Nova Scotia, Canada
4509 driving lamp
For those folks who installed the 4509 aircraft 100w lamps in their driving light housings - are there any wiring issues? Does the existing harness and switch handle the added wattage, or was a relay needed. Thanks!
Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,532
Likes: 7
From: Rochester N.Y.
I have not done this mod , but here's a couple thoughts on it.
A 100 watt bulb at 13 volts is going to draw about 7.69 amps each.
You only have a 15 amp fuse for the circuit (I think) for the passing beams.
This would put you slightly over max draw for the circuit.
Another thought would be that you should have at least a 12 gauge power lead to the switch and 14 gauge to each bulb for voltage loss.
The stock wiring is smaller than this.
The best (and safest) way to do this would be to install a relay controlled by the stock switch , which will have it's own power source (and wiring gauge) to each light.
This guy makes some great stuff.
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/main.html
His stuff is motorcycle grade , water and vibration proof stuff.
You can generally go to about 50 watts each on the passing beams , I run 37.5 watts each and it runs safe with stock wiring.
Be careful going much higher with stock components.
Mick
A 100 watt bulb at 13 volts is going to draw about 7.69 amps each.
You only have a 15 amp fuse for the circuit (I think) for the passing beams.
This would put you slightly over max draw for the circuit.
Another thought would be that you should have at least a 12 gauge power lead to the switch and 14 gauge to each bulb for voltage loss.
The stock wiring is smaller than this.
The best (and safest) way to do this would be to install a relay controlled by the stock switch , which will have it's own power source (and wiring gauge) to each light.
This guy makes some great stuff.
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/main.html
His stuff is motorcycle grade , water and vibration proof stuff.
You can generally go to about 50 watts each on the passing beams , I run 37.5 watts each and it runs safe with stock wiring.
Be careful going much higher with stock components.
Mick
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
From: Nova Scotia, Canada
Mick. My FLHTP has 4411 bulbs (replacing the blue and red bulbs) and I need to replace them with something much better. Rewiring and adding a relay doesn't bother me but if you have a bulb suggestion I'd be happy to have it. I bought the 4509's without checking fuse capacity or the wiring. Rob
Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,532
Likes: 7
From: Rochester N.Y.
I run standard Wagner 4415A sealed beams in my passing beam housings.
I like the amber look and they have a very flat,wide,pattern to them.
I figure they get me noticed better in the daylight and the beams are pretty good at night also.
These are 37.5 watt and setup for screw terminals.
If you like the clear look , the 4415 would work nice also.
Just my personal preference and safe with the stock wiring.
I have the original passing beams if you want to try them , just PM me and I'll see what shipping would be to Nova Scotia from New York.
Mick
I like the amber look and they have a very flat,wide,pattern to them.
I figure they get me noticed better in the daylight and the beams are pretty good at night also.
These are 37.5 watt and setup for screw terminals.
If you like the clear look , the 4415 would work nice also.
Just my personal preference and safe with the stock wiring.
I have the original passing beams if you want to try them , just PM me and I'll see what shipping would be to Nova Scotia from New York.
Mick
I have not done this mod , but here's a couple thoughts on it.
A 100 watt bulb at 13 volts is going to draw about 7.69 amps each.
You only have a 15 amp fuse for the circuit (I think) for the passing beams.
This would put you slightly over max draw for the circuit.
Another thought would be that you should have at least a 12 gauge power lead to the switch and 14 gauge to each bulb for voltage loss.
The stock wiring is smaller than this.
The best (and safest) way to do this would be to install a relay controlled by the stock switch , which will have it's own power source (and wiring gauge) to each light.
This guy makes some great stuff.
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/main.html
His stuff is motorcycle grade , water and vibration proof stuff.
You can generally go to about 50 watts each on the passing beams , I run 37.5 watts each and it runs safe with stock wiring.
Be careful going much higher with stock components.
Mick
A 100 watt bulb at 13 volts is going to draw about 7.69 amps each.
You only have a 15 amp fuse for the circuit (I think) for the passing beams.
This would put you slightly over max draw for the circuit.
Another thought would be that you should have at least a 12 gauge power lead to the switch and 14 gauge to each bulb for voltage loss.
The stock wiring is smaller than this.
The best (and safest) way to do this would be to install a relay controlled by the stock switch , which will have it's own power source (and wiring gauge) to each light.
This guy makes some great stuff.
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/main.html
His stuff is motorcycle grade , water and vibration proof stuff.
You can generally go to about 50 watts each on the passing beams , I run 37.5 watts each and it runs safe with stock wiring.
Be careful going much higher with stock components.
Mick
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