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Cam replacement

Old Oct 30, 2006 | 04:31 PM
  #11  
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Default RE: Cam replacement

You should go for it. Sounds like you have 90% of the tools and have some mechanical ability. You will feel so much better about the job when it's done knowing you did it yourself. It's a great feeling.

I did the 510G when I did my cams. As Phil indicated, they do like a little more RPM to make a difference. They were a perfect fit for my older RKC because it had the 3.37 gearing on it. Highway RPM put the 510's at or very close to their power band. Another advantage to going with the 510's is cost. You can often find complete gear drive kits (cams, gears, install kit) on sale. whereas the Andrews kits are a little more money

The adjustable push rods make the install go quicker, but are not required (at least not for the 510's). If they fit into your budget then great. I pulled my rocker boxes off when I did mine. It was still pretty easy. One tip, check botht he service manual and the cam instructions when doing the work. Make sure you follow the oil pump alignment procedure to the T. Make sure to replace all oil pump O-Rings.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 04:53 PM
  #12  
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Default RE: Cam replacement

Hey Guys,
Thanks for the great information!
I guess I will order the parts in a couple of days and start the project maybe Friday if the parts are in. I am on vacation next week and off for about 11 days and should have some time when the wife is at work and no one comes by the garage to help!
I called my parts guy today and for the cams (S&S 510G) and S&S adjustable push rod kit it would be $800.00 out the door.
Does that sound about right?

D#mn you can buy stuff for a big block chevy cheaper than that!!!!!!

Thanks again,
Chuck

[sm=patriot.gif]
 
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 05:41 PM
  #13  
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Default RE: Cam replacement

You can do it, if you don't want to tackle the gear driven cams, go with an se203 chain driven cam. With the set-up you have, this will give you a nice boost, good low end TQ.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 05:49 PM
  #14  
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Default RE: Cam replacement

That does sound a little hight Mobey... The 510's with gears are cheaper than other cam manufacturers kits + gears.

Check price @ www.directparts.com . Call them and ask for Sam. He'll hook ya up! Don;t forget the "install kit" too.....
 
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 06:09 PM
  #15  
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Default RE: Cam replacement

ORIGINAL: Mr. Mobey

Hey Guys,
Thanks for the great information!
I guess I will order the parts in a couple of days and start the project maybe Friday if the parts are in. I am on vacation next week and off for about 11 days and should have some time when the wife is at work and no one comes by the garage to help!
I called my parts guy today and for the cams (S&S 510G) and S&S adjustable push rod kit it would be $800.00 out the door.
Does that sound about right?

D#mn you can buy stuff for a big block chevy cheaper than that!!!!!!

Thanks again,
Chuck

[sm=patriot.gif]
$800 seems a little high. You can get the complete kit (less push rods) from Wallys Cycle World for around $600. There are several choices for adjustable push rods, but most seem to be less than $150.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 06:11 PM
  #16  
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Default RE: Cam replacement

got my S&S 510s complete for $508 on ebay and paid $125 for the pushrods at HD.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 11:43 PM
  #17  
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Default RE: Cam replacement


ORIGINAL: Grover

Where did you rent the tools?

Can you provide a link or a phone number for those who want to rent instead of buy?
I sent you a PM.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 01:14 AM
  #18  
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Default RE: Cam replacement

ORIGINAL: Grover

Where did you rent the tools?

Can you provide a link or a phone number for those who want to rent instead of buy?
You can rent them from directparts.com or better yet shoot an email to pbarth@cableone.net His name is Perry Barth. He has a posting in the swap meet section of HTT and rents them even cheaper. He is the one that I'm renting from this winter when I do my swap.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 01:17 AM
  #19  
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Default RE: Cam replacement

Hey Phil, I think one of your PM's to me got me thinking....I might be leaning toward your suggestion of flattop 1550's with no head work, but then I'm not sure...wouldn't doing it without the porting kind of defeat the purpose? What would the 95 do for me without any headwork?
 
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