Installing SE compensator?
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Road Captain
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 565
Likes: 2
From: Palmyra Missouri
Installing SE compensator?
Gunna put oil grooves in new se comp sprocket and in the pic it shows them inline with the sprocket spokes, It looks to me that with grooves inbetween the spokes it would get better flow, Unless there thinkn oil running down spoke would be better,So ? is does it matter where I put the oil grooves?? Thanks..
Last edited by Reaper22; Jun 9, 2011 at 06:52 PM.
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Road Captain
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 565
Likes: 2
From: Palmyra Missouri
They do not come from factory with the oil grooves, It was suggested by some people who already installed this comp that it was a good idea to put them in.. How do I do it? how bout a ballend endmill bit, not only that I can remove same amount of metal from each oil slot. outta work huh????
Last edited by Reaper22; Jun 9, 2011 at 09:11 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Honah Lee
Have you seen what it looks like on one of those demo dish washing machines with the glass front at Home Depot? That's what it looks like in the primary when it's running. The ones I have seen galled is were the v fork drives in the crude cast ribs.
Road Master
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 929
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From: Central CA
Is it necessary to cut the grooves in the sprocket? I have ordered the SE compensator and should be receiving it sometime next week. Looking at the installation instructions, nowhere does it say to cut grooves. If it needed grooves seems like Harley Davidson would have designed the sprocket with grooves.
What am I missing here?
What am I missing here?
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Western South Dakota
What you're missing here, is that Harley does not think of everthing, and often times uses other's ideas like cutting grooves in the compensator to get more lubricant needed to vital areas.
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Ultimate HDF Member
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I wouldn't say it's absolutely necessary but it would be a good idea to do it while you have it out. If Harley Davidson did everything perfectly, you wouldn't be replacing the comp anyway. Ball milling would probably be the best way to do it. It would allow you to remove the same amount of material in all three spots. If you don't have the know how or the equipment, take it to a machine shop. I recently had two done locally and it was only $40 to get both of them done. If I remember right, you can take out 60 thousandths and it will be perfectly flush with the bevel edge around the center circle.
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Road Captain
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 565
Likes: 2
From: Palmyra Missouri
Yeah only took 40 thousandths out and featherd back for better flow, did not use a ballend cuz had to do with carbide, hard steel. Well worth doing cannot damage anything.
