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Fuel tank replacement

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Old Jul 9, 2011 | 10:53 AM
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Default Fuel tank replacement

Changing out my gas tank for a streched one. Not as hard as I thought it would be, of coarse I'm not done yet. Got the removal done, starting the install now.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2011 | 12:19 PM
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Tank is on now. No problems I dont think, no gas right now. Now time to start modifying the seat to fit it.
 
Attached Thumbnails Fuel tank replacement-photo-1.jpg   Fuel tank replacement-photo-2.jpg   Fuel tank replacement-photo-3.jpg  
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Old Jul 9, 2011 | 02:45 PM
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Ok. Im done now, time to ride to the station and fuel up and show it off.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2011 | 02:50 PM
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What did you have to do to that seat to make it fit?
 
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Old Jul 9, 2011 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert Dennis
What did you have to do to that seat to make it fit?
I am also very curious about this.

mikebaby
 
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Old Jul 9, 2011 | 08:24 PM
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subscribe...
 
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Old Jul 10, 2011 | 08:27 AM
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Now that I am done, rode the bike a little while (it still works) had a few beers some pizza, here is basically what I went through to get this job done.
Preparing:
1. Remove fuel pump fuse (its labeled on the fuse box)
2. Attempt to start the bike, it might not start at all. This will de-pressurize the fuel pump and prevent fuel from spraying all over.
3. Remove the main fuse
4. Remove the fuel supply line at the bottom of tank, move the chrome fitting upward and pull down on the fuel line. It might stick a little, wear safety glasses, if you didnt de-pressurize the fuel pump you will notice it here.
Gas tank removal
1. Remove the dash off the tank (easy to do).
2. Remove the vent tubing off the dash/fuel cap door, it wont be needed anymore
3. Now you have a top visual of the TOP PLATE.
4. Remove the vent tube from this as well and also the electrical connector, just lay these back away from the tank. Both are re-connected again later.
5. The top plate is held in place with a locking ring, I think HD calls it a CAM RING. HD says you need to use a special tool (HD-48646) but you can remove it with flat blade screw driver and hammer (or whatever). Just use the screwdriver/hammer to tap the locking tabs of the cam ring counterclockwise and it will come free. I tapped on the top most tab so if I slipped it would be more at the top of the tank and not the bottom (removal I wasnt too worried about anyways).
6. Notice that there is a top/bottom of the cam ring. It is labeled, it does not mean top as in (12 o'clock position) it means top as in you should be able to read the label TOP.
7. With the cam ring removed you can lift up the top plate. The top plate has the fuel filter and pressure regulator on it, so it does not come straight out. It also has two fuel lines (on the bottom), one connector (on the bottom) and one ground wire (on the bottom). So basically the top plate will not come 100% out at this time, just lift it up a little to expose the bottom and start taking things apart.
8. Remove the electrical connector first. It is easy to remove if you use a small flat blade and slide up into the connector where the locking tabs are (see photo, arrow shows placement of screwdriver) then squeeze the locking tabs and pull down.
9. Remove the single ground wire. Now the top plate will come out a little more to remove the fuel lines.
10. Remove the two fuel lines, notice they are different colors and specific to thier locations.
11. Remove the top plate and set aside, the fuel filter will still have fuel in it which will pour out, dont look at it from underneath while smoking.
12. Thats all the hard stuff. Still got a few more items to remove though
13. The remaining items inside tank are, Fuel level sender, Fuel Pump, Fuel line attached to Fuel check valve. There is a two wire connector attaching the fuel sender to the fuel pump which needs to be disconnected as they will come out seperately.
14. First is the fuel sender, notice all the white plasitc parts in the center bottom of the tank. The upper one is the fuel sender, the bottom one is the fuel pump. Remove the sender first by moving the plastic mounting parts down (6 o'clock position), this is really easy and smooth. Once the plastic tabs are free, remove the assembly, be careful as parts are fragile.
15. Remove the fuel pump by moving its plastic mounting part upward (12 o'clock position) until the tabs are free. Remove the assembly, be careful again, this part is larger and takes a few cus words to get it out.
16. Take a wrench and loosen the fuel check valve at the bottom of the tank, the fuel line will come out with it.
17. Install everything in reverse order.
18. Note, it was easier for me to remove the gas tank guts with the tank on the bike with exception for the fuel check valve.

Seat modification.
1. With the gas tank installed and bolted in right, fit the seat the the tank/bike.
2. Every seat is going to be different I guess, I dont know, this was my first time doing seat modificaiton. I suggest measure a lot, dry fit alot, do alot of checking and then make a cut.
3. I measured the distance from the gas tank edge back to the rear fender seat bolt. Also I took cardboard and made a radius cut to mirror the tank.
4. Remove the leather and plastic.
5. Dry fit the seat, mark the foam and plastic pan where you want to cut it. I cut the foam first and then made more dry fits before cutting the pan.
6. I would also cut a little and check, cut a little more and check, repeat until I got it fitting just right.
7. I used an old timer pocket knife to cut the foam and dremel to cut the pan. Wear safety glasses as the plastic of the pan goes everywhere when cutting it with a dremel.
8. After I got the pan and foam cut down like I wanted it, I just wrapped the leather back over it. I stappled it first at the nose, so I make sure its all center, and then near the stiching seams to make sure they were also centered up. Then just pull tight and stapple away until its all secure.
9. Mount it on the bike, grab a beer, take a photo, smoke a cig, go for a ride.
10. Note, I still have some fitting issues with my seat, I took too much off the nose, so I need to add a little foam to make up the gap and also I did not take enough off on the sides, it fits but I can make it look better. Remember you can cut more off easier then you can add back to it.

Remember if you want it done right, do it yourself. Doing your own work is a great way to save cash, having ownership of your bike, satifaction of knowning how your bike actually works, someone did out the thing together, so anyone else should be able to do the same. Its not nuclear engineering.
 
Attached Thumbnails Fuel tank replacement-top-plate-before-remove-1.jpg   Fuel tank replacement-top-plate-locking-ring.jpg   Fuel tank replacement-top-plate-connector-under-side-2.jpg   Fuel tank replacement-top-plate-connector-under-side-1.jpg   Fuel tank replacement-top-plate-1.jpg  

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Old Jul 10, 2011 | 08:34 AM
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Before and After.....

Not much done but I did it all myself with the exception of fuel pack/dyno tune, mainly just due to stipulations when purchasing the product. The handle bars were a great time had by me and my buds.
 
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