bump please

 

Sorry to be a bit pedantic here but hoping clarification of this will help you track down the problem.

A fuse is a current limiting safety device which blows when current in excess of the rating passes through, so the bottom line is that the only way you can blow a fuse is by having "too much current"

So, why do people talk about grounding as the issue? All electrical devices have an inherent resistance in them, and the current flowing through this device against this resistance is what gets the power to the device to do what it is designed to do.

This relationship is defined by the most classic of electrical laws called Ohms Law, which states V = I x R, where v is voltage (fixed at 12vdc on a bike), I is current and R is resistance. When the device designer builds the device they know what the total resistance of the device is so they can calculate the size of he fuse required to protect that circuit.

So, what does a grounding issue have to do with this. Well, if a wire, which should be totally isolated from ground inadvertently becomes connected to ground, then this offers an alternative flow path for the current, rather than through the device (lights in your case). Current will always flow through the path of least resistance, and looking at the formula above you can see that if a wire is directly connected to ground resistance is, essentially zero, which means current MUST be infinite!

How do wires get connected to ground? Typically something gets pinched during assembly and the insulation is broken through with the bare wire then being exposed to a sharp metal edge of screw. There are other ways but this is the most common by a long way. Another common cause is the switch assembly itself being damaged internally and connecting the live to ground internally.

The fact that you are blowing a 20A immediately would indicate a grounding issue, I agree with that, as it appears as though you have current well in excess of the specified limit. Fuses will withstand momentary current surges

 

Well with that said about an excess of current to my 15A fuse. I have done some looking back at the LED passing lights I installed and here is the specs.
Low beam current draw 1.5 amps (stock halogen is 4.9 amps) High beam current draw 2.3 amps (stock halogen is 5.5 amps)
Passing lamps (pr) current draw 1.4 amps (stock halogen (pr) 4.0 amps)

So it seems to me that my passing lights are only drawing maximum 2.3 amps the way I see it. So where is the remaining amps current coming from?

 

As I understand, your fuse does not blow unless the passing lamps are energized. Is this correct?

 

If this is the case, you have a short in your passing lamp circuit.
I kept blowing the fuse for my running lights and tail lamp. It was a chaffed wire behind my headlight rubbing against the fork head tube.

 

Yea, this is kinda getting at, but I am not sure if this is the case. If this is the case, then somewhere between the power source and the led, something is grounded to the frame.

 

Your model was affected by the brake light switch recall. I may have missed it if this was referred to in the previous posts but this was one of the symptoms of switch failure.
Mine began to require very hard pedal pressure to light the lamp. This was another one of the possible failure symptoms.
My dealer replaced hundreds of them and told me that mine was the only actual failure they saw during the recall period. They moved me up to the front of the line for replacement.
Look into that if you haven't already.

 

Correct. The failure is only when the Passing lights are engaged.

 

I will look into this tonight. I hate to take the headlight off and re-adjust...But this is botehring me. It's getting dark now when I go to work...Need more lights.............

 

If you don't have one, try to get a volt/ohm meter. This can help you track down the exact culprit without taking a lot of stuff apart.