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Does the crank run out get worse with miles or is it pretty much the way it was from the factory. Checked mine at 90,000 miles and it was at 0.040 Will it get worse or am I good to go for a while. Ive never stollen a bike (and you are a piece of **** if you have) but I ride it like I have.
I am not trying to be a smarta$$ - but what does it mean when you say the "CRANK SCISSORED"? I ain't familiar with that term.
The wheels have slipped on the crank pin and aren't concentric with each other any more. Don't remember where the term scissored came from but I have heard it used before.
If I was riding and saw the oil light come on, or heard noise or saw smoke I would kill the engine and pull over immediately, if at all possible.
I don't understand why anyone would ride on in that situation.
I know a guy who, while riding an Evo, saw the oil light come on and kept riding for a while. When he shut it off that was it-- engine seized. I don't get it.
I have an 07 classic (FLHTC) and last year it started to get a very bad vibration. I started to tear it down and the crank had scissored. That had scored the pump so bad that I had to replace that.
The only reason that I say about the scissored crank is that is a fairly common issue with the 07s.
...And I'm sure it had absolutely nothing to do with your performance mods.
Does the crank run out get worse with miles or is it pretty much the way it was from the factory. Checked mine at 90,000 miles and it was at 0.040 Will it get worse or am I good to go for a while. Ive never stollen a bike (and you are a piece of **** if you have) but I ride it like I have.
I doubt that your crank runout is .040"; you couldn't ride the bike with that much runout. Maybe .040" is a typo and you meant .004"? If that is the case, no worries but I would hesitate to run gear drive cams with more than .003".
Runout can get worse but it's not the mileage that does it. A nasty heat soaked kick back on restart can do it; lugging the motor can do it; wheelstands and burnouts can do it; anything that puts an extraordinary load on the crank that the crank was not designed to accomodate. The standard runout that was acceptable for warranty purposes prior to 2007 was .003" TIR but the MoCo changed that spec in 2007 to .012". 2007 coincidentally was when the MoCo changed crank suppliers. I don't know the country of origin but could take a wild guess. 2007 was the first year which is why there was a higher incidence of faillures; it took the new supplier one model year to improve the quality control process.
Up until 2002, the cranks were hot forged but the MoCo went to a cold forged process in 2003 and maintained that, I believe, until 2007 when the fabrication process went to cast cranks. I could be mistaken about the timing and the process changes;maybe someone can check me on that.
Bottom line is that since 2007 the cranks have been weaker and more prone to tweaking and the warranty spec has been relaxed; one reason why I haven't bought a new Harley since 2005. Anyone considering performance mods that start pushing TQ/HP numbers well above the 100 mark should consider having the stock crank trued, balanced and welded.
V2Evo96 wrote:
If I was riding and saw the oil light come on, or heard noise or saw smoke I would kill the engine and pull over immediately, if at all possible.
I don't understand why anyone would ride on in that situation.
I know a guy who, while riding an Evo, saw the oil light come on and kept riding for a while. When he shut it off that was it-- engine seized. I don't get it.
Why? My comment was relevant to the thread (I thought). It could be any combustion engine that requires a lubrication system engine using pressurized oil as the medium.
Thanks dhl and yes it was0.004. And this is why I will consider a big bore when I get tired of this new cam. I had minor wear on the crank and copper bushing but I polishet it up.
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