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Jul 28, 2011 | 06:07 PM

#31

6 gun

Seasoned HDF Member

Joined: Mar 2008

Posts: 9,384

Likes: 1,776

From: Central Texas

dang this looks like the time and excuse to go with some
preformance heads

Jul 28, 2011 | 06:12 PM

#32

soft 02

Seasoned HDF Member

Joined: Mar 2007

Posts: 66,948

Likes: 4,573

From: TOAK western branch

6 gun that is a slippery slope. Before you know it your a grand in debt and burning your tire to the ground.

Jul 28, 2011 | 06:37 PM

#33

fabrik8r

Outstanding HDF Member

Joined: Jan 2010

Posts: 2,916

Likes: 31

From: earth

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rickr01

Piston top dead, and a quality medical gauze pad coated in grease.

Hate to sound stupid but could you splain this technique, can always use an extra secret weapon in the toolbox.

Jul 28, 2011 | 08:24 PM

#34

Bill03E

Outstanding HDF Member

Joined: Dec 2007

Posts: 2,403

Likes: 20

From: Indy

Quote:

Originally Posted by fabrik8r

Hate to sound stupid but could you splain this technique, can always use an extra secret weapon in the toolbox.

How I have done it is stuff the gauze pad in the cylinder when the piston is up, then put some grease on the pad while it is in there, then put your finger or something in there and smear a seal to the bottom of the hole , then when you are done cutting, scrape out all of the shavings you can then pull the gauze out.

Jul 29, 2011 | 06:39 AM

#35

Rickr01

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Joined: Mar 2008

Posts: 4,419

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From: Vermont

Quote:

Originally Posted by fabrik8r

Hate to sound stupid but could you splain this technique, can always use an extra secret weapon in the toolbox.

Sure, used this method so many times on early shovels that used helicoils in the spark plug holes and on a buggered up Evo or two. Make sure the piston is top dead center. It keeps the gauze or cotton, whatever you use, from dropping out of reach. Then coat the gauze pad with bearing grease. Shove it into the spark plug hole. Push it right in to the bottom of the hole. It won't go far with the piston top dead. Then add more grease blob to the hole. Then as your tapping for the heli coil, any shavings is trapped in the grease. When done, use a small pair of needle nose or what I use is a long surgeons tweezer and carefully pull out the grease and shavings covered gauze. Done deal.

Jul 29, 2011 | 07:00 AM

#36

fabrik8r

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Joined: Jan 2010

Posts: 2,916

Likes: 31

From: earth

Thanks for the explain, I'm all about the field expieient machine tricks, they'll make or break ya. The air thing works great too, I made a rig with a simple ball valve and piece of scrap hose, so you can set everything up and then turn on the air when you get ready to tap.

Jul 29, 2011 | 08:03 AM

#37

mrfikser

Outstanding HDF Member

Joined: Oct 2009

Posts: 2,488

Likes: 30

From: Maryland near DC

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill03E

I do sort of the same thing but I move the piston down a little ways and then stuff the pre greased gauze in the hole, take a small dowel and spred the gauze out some remove the dowel and move the piston up so that the gauze fills the combustion area...then I put a blob of grease on the tap tip treads (to catch most of the chips) and run in/out the tap...then I look in the hole and try and fish out the extra metal chips with a pair of surgical plier thingys move the piston down a little and use the same pliers to pull out the gauze...put in a new piece of gauze and run in the helicoil..and try and carefully break the end off of the helicoil with the same pliers if that doesn't work just break it with a dowel and reach in and pull the piece of metal out and then pull out the new piece of gauze (sometimes you need to use a small piece of coat hanger of something like it to help the gauze not get caught on the end of the helicoil...sounds harder than it really is....just take your time and it will all work out fine...Oh, and don't turn the helicoil in to far...you don't want it to be below the bottom of the threads (usually not an issue)...