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What are you using for a straightedge man, I had that kinda optical illusion and I then used a parallel bar and make sure you are holding it against the sprocket correctly, going from little sprocket to big sprocket seems tougher to get alinement than going the other way, BTW do you have the bolts snug while checking?
Reaper I measured using a Toledo machinists 6" rule and again with a new hacksaw blade-- same measurement.
I have to measure off of the crank sprocket, as the cam sprocket is 'behind' the crank sprocket. If the cam sprocket was proud of the crank sprocket I could measure off of that, but it's the other way around-- I have to measure off the small sprocket.
Bolts are snug to 15 ft/lbs as per spec and I pressed on both sprockets to seat them towards the flywheel before measuring.
<<<EDIT-- I'll also find another straightedge to check the measurement from again >>>>>
Last edited by V2Evo96; Sep 15, 2011 at 12:43 PM.
Reason: add content
I would double check everything and see if you get the same results when everything has been re-checked. If crank is OK, I would bring in as close as you can get it using shims and a good straight edge. The chain is also going to take up a little misalignment. I wouldn't lose any sleep over it.
Thanks soft 02--good point--haven't measured it -- got to get a stand for the dial indicator first. I have no reason to suspect it isn't within the 'generous' .012 spec.
What I can do later this morning before work is turn the crank to a different spot and measure across the sprockets again to see if any difference. Not a great telltale but as an indication it may work. What do you think?
I would double check everything and see if you get the same results when everything has been re-checked. If crank is OK, I would bring in as close as you can get it using shims and a good straight edge. The chain is also going to take up a little misalignment. I wouldn't lose any sleep over it.
I agree-- I intend to get is as close as possible and call it good.
The chain/sprockets configuration must be able to manage the max allowable crank runout of .012-- I believe that's why they went from gears to chain.
I'd bet that if you rotate the engine and check the parrallelism between the sprockets at different points you'll see some variance. There's probably a little "wobble" in the gears as a result of the stack-up of tolerances in all of the associated parts.
Trying to isolate the specific cause(s) of the .005 your measuring would require some very precise measurements not easily performed "on the bike".
I beleive you are thinking correctly when you say "I intend to get is as close as possible and call it good."
Gents-- thank you all for your wise comments and valuable input. You have given me some considerations, shown me a very cool tool (gotta get one of those), and also confirmed what I suspected-- that there is no big issue here at all.
Feeling comfortable now- think I'll have a nap before I get up and go to work in a couple of hours this morning. Have a good day all.
will be doing this job soon. wonder how much up and down play there is on the cam plate itself before bolting it down. so basically, not doing anything, the plate will rest pretty low on all the bolts. then you tighten. now you got a tilted cam. on the other hand, if you push the cam plate all the way up before tightening it, the tilt will go the other way. so the question is...is the cam plate self centering....or is there some play within the bolts and bolt holes. So is the issue that you need a way to center the cam plate before tightening it. Maybe use some heat shrink on the bolts before sliding in the bolts to suck up the play to center the cam plate. all conceptual of course.
will be doing this job soon. wonder how much up and down play there is on the cam plate itself before bolting it down. so basically, not doing anything, the plate will rest pretty low on all the bolts. then you tighten. now you got a tilted cam. on the other hand, if you push the cam plate all the way up before tightening it, the tilt will go the other way. so the question is...is the cam plate self centering....or is there some play within the bolts and bolt holes. So is the issue that you need a way to center the cam plate before tightening it. Maybe use some heat shrink on the bolts before sliding in the bolts to suck up the play to center the cam plate. all conceptual of course.
There are two dowels that locate the cam plate therefore your questions should not be any concern at all.
will be doing this job soon. wonder how much up and down play there is on the cam plate itself before bolting it down. so basically, not doing anything, the plate will rest pretty low on all the bolts. then you tighten. now you got a tilted cam. on the other hand, if you push the cam plate all the way up before tightening it, the tilt will go the other way. so the question is...is the cam plate self centering....or is there some play within the bolts and bolt holes. So is the issue that you need a way to center the cam plate before tightening it. Maybe use some heat shrink on the bolts before sliding in the bolts to suck up the play to center the cam plate. all conceptual of course.
2 black said it first and I can confirm there is no slack in the cam plate when mounted as it's self centering.
The dowel pins hold it and if torqued up in the correct sequence it rests square against the cam chest mounting.
When I mounted mine you can feel the large oil pump O ring seat into the orifice, followed by the clunk as the cam plate reaches its mounted position. Mine just needed a small wiggle to go home and rested square against the mount before i installed a screw.
Just swapped my cams out last week and my sprockets were parallel but I needed a washer that was .020" thicker. I personally wouldn't worry about the .005".
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