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Like I said, I am not sure why either. I know when running 70 mph, in the past the tach read 3,000-3,100. When I hit 70 today, it was showing 2800-2900. Could be a tach error, could be my eyes were tearing from joy, or could be the fact the bike was running so good, it didn't take 3100 rpm's to get to 70. Just made me happy with the performance.
And I figure the stock download from Dynojet did have some changes in it, cause a lot of things were a little different...
Joe
i dont have a power commander but my dad does and i remember him saying there was a ton of options on his. the ratio for the speedo is probably off and needs adjusted. meaning you probably werent doing 70mph yet..
I recently purchased a power commander, and finally got it to power up using a 9V battery. I downloaded a map from the power commander website, for a completely stock 2005 Ultra Classic. I installed it today before a 100 mile ride, just to see if there was a difference. Now unless I am imagining it, there was a markable increase in throttle response, idle was smoother and top end performance seemed to increase. I noticed at 70 mph the rpm was around 2800 where it normally is 3100 or so. It also seemed the bike pulled a lot harder(had 26H Andrews cams installed earlier this summer)and did not bog down when the rpms got down around 2000. Can't wait until I get the new air cleaner and true duals on to see what happens...Also noticed my gas mileage dropped, but that could have been from the several 80 mph(twice over 105) speed spurts...LOL
Joe
No tuner can effect in any way rpm vs mph. That is a straight mechanical ratio set by the gear and pulley sizes of the engine, transmission and rear wheel.
No tuner can effect in any way rpm vs mph. That is a straight mechanical ratio set by the gear and pulley sizes of the engine, transmission and rear wheel.
I have to assume you are correct. But, I know that a motor that is tuned and running better than it was before, will produce more power and therefore the results can be altered. I went for another ride today and checked the speed/rpm. Again, at 70 mph, the tach read 2800 rpms. At 80 it was reading 3100. With the cams that are in my bike, it pulls really hard, but does not have a large jump in rpms, especially in 5th. I also pulled my trailer home today and it had absolutely no effect on the way the bike was running.
I'm REALLY confused by the 300 rpm drop. In my world you need to make a gear change for that to happen.
My thoughts exactly. Does the clutch slip less once a tune is installed. And did it come frok fuel MOTO. I think that a tuner with auto-tune is in my future. Another winter mod
If you could could get it up to 2,800 rpms with only one cylinder running, it would be going the same speed as it would with with a perfect tune big cams and high compression. It is a mechanical thing. If you turn the rear wheel at the same rpm, it produces the same speed no matter how the engine is running. Your bike probably does perform better though with the PC. It just can't change the speed at the same rpm.
If you could could get it up to 2,800 rpms with only one cylinder running, it would be going the same speed as it would with with a perfect tune, big cams and high compression. It is a mechanical thing. If you turn the rear wheel at the same rpm, it produces the same speed no matter how the engine is running. Your bike probably does perform better though with the PC.
Well, mother nature had other ideas, as far as my ride on Monday. So will be a few days, until everything drys out and warms up just a little. Don't mind riding in the cold, but not wet and cold...figure on riding it to work on Friday(55 miles, 2 lane and interstate). Then record the rpms, etc. Then before I leave to come home will put the tuner back on, and ride it home and see what is different if anything. I can't believe the difference in the rpm's is my imagination. I am also going to put the gps on to see how accurate the speedometer is.
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