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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 06:28 AM
  #11  
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The tension gauge is $17. Setting belt tension by feel is exactly as accurate as measuring power increases via butt dyno. Both diagnostic tools (butt dyno and fingers-as-tension-gauge) are worth exactly what you pay for them.

CT-Bagger is correct. Don't stress over the marks in the belt guard, rely on the gauge and all is well.
 

Last edited by '05Train; Oct 16, 2011 at 10:21 AM.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 06:29 AM
  #12  
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Stupid forum keeps double-posting me......
 

Last edited by '05Train; Oct 16, 2011 at 06:34 AM.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Expat1
I think we have to evaluate the sag induced by gravity and from this point set the bow with the gauge. When cold, my belt moves a bit less than 1/8" without affecting the gauge then I get 3/8" deflection by applying 10 lb. When warm it has no sag and feels tensioned like the string of a guitar.

That may be what I am experiencing, The belt gets tighter as the pulleys warm up and expand. The book says to adjust at ambient temperature but I notice even that changes the feel of the belt 40F and 80F ambient temp have different feels. I also think the sag changes the measurement quite a bit.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 09:31 AM
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ignore the sag ....you don't need to sit on the bike .......or raise the bike (but you can if you want).....just put the gauge on the bottom side of the bottom run of the belt and push up until you get to 10lbs on the gauge..look through the window of the belt guard at the marks and set to the proper mark for your bike....its really not that tough....when you are done check a few different areas of the belt (rotate the tire) to make sure they are mostly consistent.....and most of all trust the gauge, it only has one job and it does it well (unlike a finger)....then go for a ride...
 
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by mrfikser
ignore the sag ....you don't need to sit on the bike .......or raise the bike (but you can if you want).....just put the gauge on the bottom side of the bottom run of the belt and push up until you get to 10lbs on the gauge..look through the window of the belt guard at the marks and set to the proper mark for your bike....its really not that tough....when you are done check a few different areas of the belt (rotate the tire) to make sure they are mostly consistent.....and most of all trust the gauge, it only has one job and it does it well (unlike a finger)....then go for a ride...
This was my first new bike and it came with a belt that had well over 1/2" of deflection under 10 lb. Now it's perfect but I had check it several times to be sure I could pest against the dealer
 
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 12:02 PM
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I use the twist method.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Stiggy
A little too tight is better than a little too loose. I've always run mine that way and my 12 year old belt is still on there without a leak from tranny or primary.
I do the opposite! I prefer to keep mine on the slack end of the range, but not loose.

I also have never sat on the bike while checking or adjusting, mainly because there is only me there at the time!
 
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 03:28 PM
  #18  
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hey experts whats the part # for the belt tensioning TOOL ...THANKS
 

Last edited by baust55; Oct 16, 2011 at 03:34 PM.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 03:35 PM
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Here you go: 40006-85 Harley Davidson Belt Tension Tester Tool. You can get them on Ebay, which is where I got that from.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 04:18 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by '05Train
The tension gauge is $17. Setting belt tension by feel is exactly as accurate as measuring power increases via butt dyno. Both diagnostic tools (butt dyno and fingers-as-tension-gauge) are worth exactly what you pay for them.

CT-Bagger is correct. Don't stress over the marks in the belt guard, rely on the gauge and all is well.

After 25 years of riding and wrenching I just found out there is a gauge for a belt! LOL! I thought the gauge was the slot built into the belt guard.

If you still can't do it by feel after how many years????.......

Sorry Buddy.
 
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