Help replacing passing lamp bracket
Thread Starter
|
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
From: Great Lakes State
Help replacing passing lamp bracket
So my passing lamp/turn signal got bent (no I didn't drop it) and now I got all the new parts I need from Zanotti, a new bracket, lamp and trim. I removed the bracket with lights and all from the bike. Question is, how do I get the passing lamps and turn signals off? I pretty much gutted both lights, separated the signal halves. Still I don't see how these two light fixtures are attached to each other, yet they can swivel to some degree...
Are there any instructions avail on line, or anyone that can tell me how?
Are there any instructions avail on line, or anyone that can tell me how?
Last edited by Harleybike; Oct 19, 2011 at 05:37 PM.
Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 619
Likes: 0
From: Northeast U.S.
Look here for a schematic: http://www.bikebandit.com/2008-harle...8637#sch624944
Essentially, once the turn signal is removed from the dog bone, there is a nut up inside it if I remember right. The bolt is hollow to allow the passage of the signal lamp wire(s).
Essentially, once the turn signal is removed from the dog bone, there is a nut up inside it if I remember right. The bolt is hollow to allow the passage of the signal lamp wire(s).
Last edited by valvestem; Oct 19, 2011 at 10:38 AM.
Thread Starter
|
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
From: Great Lakes State
I found a nut that looks like it holds the top half of the turn signal to the passing lamp. But its up inside the turn signal housing and a single wire runs through the middle of it into the passing lamp housing.
Gonna tell me I have to cut the wire in the passing lamp housing and pull it thru to remove the nut that is inside the turn signal housing to separate the two? And then have to splice the wire back together in the passing lamp housing after I put it on the new bracket?
Gonna tell me I have to cut the wire in the passing lamp housing and pull it thru to remove the nut that is inside the turn signal housing to separate the two? And then have to splice the wire back together in the passing lamp housing after I put it on the new bracket?
Thread Starter
|
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
From: Great Lakes State
Look here for a schematic: http://www.bikebandit.com/2008-harle...8637#sch624944
Essentially, once the turn signal is removed from the dog bone, there is a nut up inside it if I remember right. The bolt is hollow to allow the passage of the signal lamp wire(s).
Essentially, once the turn signal is removed from the dog bone, there is a nut up inside it if I remember right. The bolt is hollow to allow the passage of the signal lamp wire(s).
How do they put this stuff together at the factory...Sheesh.
Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 619
Likes: 0
From: Northeast U.S.
No need to cut the wires, they make a special socket, (no surprise) for that, it has a slot cut out of the side for the wires. You could make one, or try to borrow one.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 10,449
Likes: 46
From: Roswell, GA
Rather than cutting the passing lamp wire (the one that passes through the threaded stud that's secured by a nut), you can use a slotted 9/16" slotted socket. You can buy the socket, or (as most due) take a cheap 9/16" socket and grind a slot approx. 1/4" wide and an inch or so long. The slot will accommodate the wire provided you only turn the socket 270 degrees or so, remove the socket and reinstall it, and repeat until the nut is off the threaded stud--if you just keep ratcheting the nut with the socket, the wire will wind around the socket until the wire tears.
Carl
Carl
Thread Starter
|
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
From: Great Lakes State
Ok, I understand the slotting socket idea, (A special socket, go figure) but once I get the nut off, I still have to separate the two and remove from the dog bone. There is no slot in the dog bone (for the wire) to remove the signal and the passing lamp.
Ok ok, no comments from the peanut gallery (I know what my sig quote reads...Lmao) but is this easier than I am making it sound?
Ok ok, no comments from the peanut gallery (I know what my sig quote reads...Lmao) but is this easier than I am making it sound?
Last edited by Harleybike; Oct 19, 2011 at 11:06 AM.
Trending Topics
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 10,449
Likes: 46
From: Roswell, GA
If you had the HD Touring model service manual, you could look at the appendix at the rear to learn how to remove the Amp Multilock connectors; once removed, the wires can be pulled through and removed, then reinserted in the new parts.
W/O the service manual, you may find the information you need at the Tyco Amp website.
Good luck.
Carl
W/O the service manual, you may find the information you need at the Tyco Amp website.
Good luck.
Carl
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
Harley-Davidson Fat Boy Becomes a Dark, Decepticon-Inspired Custom
Verdad Gallardo
6 Weirdest Harley-Davidsons Ever Sold to the Public
Verdad Gallardo
7 Times Harley-Davidson Chucked Tradition Out the Window
Verdad Gallardo
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Verdad Gallardo
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
|
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
From: Great Lakes State
Adjusting the lamps
The slotted socket is a great idea for when you just have to adjust the passing lamps. I found no other way to separate the lights from the dog bone without cutting the single wire leading into the passing lamp housing. No big deal as I spliced it using a posi twist connector.
Now, the ? is....what reference point do we use to adjust the passing lamp aim point, close to factory aiming , so that they are not blinding on coming cages or cages in front of us more then they already do?
Now, the ? is....what reference point do we use to adjust the passing lamp aim point, close to factory aiming , so that they are not blinding on coming cages or cages in front of us more then they already do?