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I have ran Dunlop stockers up to now (33K miles), and as in OP, had slight slow speed wobble, I think I started the E3s at about40 psi, but have played with that some and a couple psi either way didn't seem to matter much. I hope the glass is half full, and the indy guy learns a little about this, I have, won't be back there.
The beginning of the story was when I took the wheels to him to peel and remount, I took the wheels to get black powder coat, and install new bearings and he didn't put in the ABS bearings up front (he didn't ask me about it and I didn't tell him) so a few miles later, pads rubbed the rotor to the warp point and the caliper ground off a little of the outer quarter inch of the rotor as well.
Ended up with a local dealer to look at it and they found the problem, replaced with correct bearing and I put the new rotors on
Major PIA.
I have an rather new E3 on the front of my FLHTC. (2010) It rides good, but I had a low speed wobble. It's at the dealership now, getting some warranty work done and I told them about it. Thought my bearing were going out or something. They called me today and said the neck bearings and wheel bearings were good. BUT, who ever mounted the tire mounted it backwards. Before I go raise hell about it to the indy i want to investigate further. Can the tire be mounted right, but the rim and tire be just turned around? Mounted backwards or the tire on the rim backwards. It has duel disk brakes, so maybe it was just mounted on the bike backwards. I didn't ask much on the phone because I want to see it before I ask to many stupid questions. It may be that the indy just didn't turn the wheel the right way when mounting it on the bike. I'll soon see! On the way there now to pick it up... what ever it is, hope the wobble is gone.
Well I put the newly spin balanced front wheel on (with a new counter weight) and it helped a little but its still not as good as it used to be. I am pretty sure the guy that did the balancing took it to a nearby car tire store. Stopped by a different shop Saturday and that guy told me there is a difference between spin balancers for cars and motorcycles. Anyone know if there any truth to that?
I would urge you to remove and re-install your rotors yourself, following the procedure and torque spec in the manual. I had a tire rebalanced 3 times, and ended up just learning to live with it. What I figured out through a tire change debacle with my friend and a local tire shop, is that shops remove your rotors and drive sprocet so they can get the wheel on the tire machine, but they don't know how to put them back on properly. I just put that new tire on, and when I pulled the rotor and drive sproket I could see evidence of improper torque because there were slight rub marks between the hub and the sprocket/rotor. I had to hit my hub mounting surfaces with some fine paper and a wire brush to remove the aluminum dust that rubbed and built up. All cleaned up and mounted correctly, no more wooob, wooob, wooob noise. As little a 10% deviation in torque can warp your rotors; have you checked rotor runout? Not saying this is your problem for sure, but at least you can eliminate it as the source of your wobble, leaving bearings, bad tire, bad wheel, and bad balance as the possibile source.
fabrik8r, I will re check the rotors torque, may try the shop that mentioned a difference in the car and motorcycle balancers, they do service as well, and I will make sure they know about the re assembly process
Thanks
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