DIY HK Faceplate fix.
Thread Starter
|
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,602
Likes: 3
From: Southeastern Michigan
DIY HK Faceplate fix.
Just took my stock 07 HK radio out to see why the faceplate went blank. It was still lit and the radio functioned normally, but there was no info on the faceplate.
After I had it all buttoned up, I thought - "why didn't I take pics"?
Also - it's a really simple fix, and took about an hour to accomplish.
Anyway, hopefully I can verbally walk you through what I did. It does work now BTW.
Also - it's a really simple fix, and took about an hour total to accomplish.
* First off - remove the radio (HD Manual).
* Now remove the rubber "band" around the front of the radio. You need to re-use it so be carefull. Also note it's location front to back.
* Unplug the rubber plug from the 3mm jack in the faceplate.
* Carefully unhook the 6 plastic tangs attaching the face plate to the radio housing. Take care to keep it in the same plane as original, since removing the faceplate disconnects the only connector, and it's dainty, so watch your force.
Now that you have the faceplate off you should see the problem - a corroded connector.
* On mine the small metal (contact) pins on the faceplate side were also pushed into the plastic, so I took an exacto blade and lighty pried them out. They are somewhat spring loaded and need to move freely in and out.
* Next I took the exacto and lightly scraped away the corrosion on the small plates on the housing connector for a good contact.
* Finally I applied a small amount of Dielectric greese to the pins and the plates. Not sure if this was neccessary, but time will tell.
Now it's time to re-install everything.
* align the faceplate with the housing and carefully engage the 6 tangs, connector (although you can't really see it), and the 3mm jack, by snapping back together.
Now , I highly recomend you connect the radio to the bike (without installing) to see if it works. If so you're golden. If not, check your pins and contacts again (by removing faceplate). Or it could be something more substantial? Your call on what to do from there.
Finally, to try and stop water intrusion, I used weatherstrip adhesive to attach the rubber band to the assy.
* Attach rubber band to the radio in it's original position.
* Now roll back the baffled portion onto the flat section and apply the adhesive where the baffle goes, sparingly but deliberately, and ensure you close off any chanels where water may enter.
* Roll the baffle back into position and ensure it sits flat, in original position, and let dry.
* Do the same with the flat portion of the band, routing adhesive around divits, and filling valleys. Install and let dry.
* Re-install radio....
That's it.
We'll see if it holds up, although I'm pretty sure it will.
If there is significant interest in this I may do some illustrations for the DIY'ers, since I'm not taking it apart again until I have too.
After I had it all buttoned up, I thought - "why didn't I take pics"?
Also - it's a really simple fix, and took about an hour to accomplish.
Anyway, hopefully I can verbally walk you through what I did. It does work now BTW.
Also - it's a really simple fix, and took about an hour total to accomplish.
* First off - remove the radio (HD Manual).
* Now remove the rubber "band" around the front of the radio. You need to re-use it so be carefull. Also note it's location front to back.
* Unplug the rubber plug from the 3mm jack in the faceplate.
* Carefully unhook the 6 plastic tangs attaching the face plate to the radio housing. Take care to keep it in the same plane as original, since removing the faceplate disconnects the only connector, and it's dainty, so watch your force.
Now that you have the faceplate off you should see the problem - a corroded connector.
* On mine the small metal (contact) pins on the faceplate side were also pushed into the plastic, so I took an exacto blade and lighty pried them out. They are somewhat spring loaded and need to move freely in and out.
* Next I took the exacto and lightly scraped away the corrosion on the small plates on the housing connector for a good contact.
* Finally I applied a small amount of Dielectric greese to the pins and the plates. Not sure if this was neccessary, but time will tell.
Now it's time to re-install everything.
* align the faceplate with the housing and carefully engage the 6 tangs, connector (although you can't really see it), and the 3mm jack, by snapping back together.
Now , I highly recomend you connect the radio to the bike (without installing) to see if it works. If so you're golden. If not, check your pins and contacts again (by removing faceplate). Or it could be something more substantial? Your call on what to do from there.
Finally, to try and stop water intrusion, I used weatherstrip adhesive to attach the rubber band to the assy.
* Attach rubber band to the radio in it's original position.
* Now roll back the baffled portion onto the flat section and apply the adhesive where the baffle goes, sparingly but deliberately, and ensure you close off any chanels where water may enter.
* Roll the baffle back into position and ensure it sits flat, in original position, and let dry.
* Do the same with the flat portion of the band, routing adhesive around divits, and filling valleys. Install and let dry.
* Re-install radio....
That's it.
We'll see if it holds up, although I'm pretty sure it will.
If there is significant interest in this I may do some illustrations for the DIY'ers, since I'm not taking it apart again until I have too.
Last edited by Scorpion07; Nov 28, 2011 at 07:14 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
