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Gear cams Vs Chain driven

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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 06:25 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by FL-kruzen
Thanks for the good information. I think I'll stay with chain unless I do an engine overhaul and my 01 FLHTC only has 27K on the clock
I have the same crank as your bike. Installed gear drive cams ( Andrews 26G's) at 81,000 miles this past January and the bike hits 100,000 miles in two weeks.

Only sound that changed is a slight "tick" at idle. ( Complete kit on EBay $581.00, Black Ops lifters $169.00, Adjustable pushrods $160.00. Bought the inner cam tools and resold them when I was finished.)

Haven't needed to look inside the cam chest since then and don't plan to.

I plan to keep my bike until forever or until I'm dead, ( whichever comes first)

You've got the 'near perfect' crank, why not use it!
 

Last edited by Stiggy; Dec 2, 2011 at 06:29 PM.
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 09:45 PM
  #22  
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I installed gear drives at 30K, and never ever heard any gear whine until this last summer when we hit oil temps of 260+ on a trip. I spent several hours wondering what the heck was falling apart in my engine, until I realized the whine was from the thin oil.

The newer bikes have a lot more crank runout specs considered "normal."

But .030 ? Wow ! Are you sure you didn't mean .003 ?
 

Last edited by MNPGRider; Dec 2, 2011 at 09:51 PM.
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 01:23 PM
  #23  
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I'm sure he meant 0.003.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 03:05 PM
  #24  
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my buddy and i both done 510 gear cams on our 88". Our Indy done it, sometimes it's better to let professionals do some jobs...
His '02 RK carb is more noisy than my '04 Ultra injected, don't know why. You just hear it a little when you switch off but now we are sure about our 88" reliability.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 03:24 PM
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2006 and before had spring loaded cam shoe tensioners. The spring loaded put a lot of pressure on the chain and the chain would wear out the shoes faster.
In 07 HD came out with the new Hydraulic cam shoe tensinrers and a different chain.
This is a much easier setup to go with and will last a long time over Spring loades tensioners on the 06 and before.
HD also upgraded the Oil pump on the 07 and newer bikes. This is a Big Plus

With gear drive you have to measure the pivot shaft to find the end play. Then if you are out like over 10 thousands the rule of thumb goes that you can't use gear drive.
And when you can use gear drive you got to know Plus or minus gears and I like doing the job with a Press. And with the gear drive you git NO new upgrades oil pump .
The dealer has a upgraded SE cam plate kit.
Bob Woods has a new upgraded cam plate that is different from the dealer. Bob Woods new cam plate from what I understand is like the 07 model. It don't have bearings in the outter part of the cam plate. And he has the cams to go with it.
The kit comes with a Oil pump too.
If you do a upgrade like this replace the lifters. I like Bob Woods Directional Lifters or Fueling Race lifters.

You got to deceide which setup you want. Its your bike. And you are spending the money.
But I would take a Hydraulic setup any day over gears.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 05:38 PM
  #26  
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Cardboard, I believe the rule is more than .003" ( 3 Thousandths,) and you shouldn't use gear drive.
I've got gear drive and love it. But if I owned an '03 or later, especially '07 and later, I'd go hydraulic tensioners.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 05:44 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Stiggy
Cardboard, I believe the rule is more than .003" ( 3 Thousandths,) and you shouldn't use gear drive.
I've got gear drive and love it. But if I owned an '03 or later, especially '07 and later, I'd go hydraulic tensioners.
Thanks for reminding me, I knew it was somewhere down there. That's why I said LIke.
Age is catchin up with me. Plus sittin in the house from the rain and cold weather.



Know that HD on the 11 bikes. don't remember what year started using higher press pressure points to press flywheels together. Hope that will hold em from slippin.
Now if that helped any on the pivot shaft specs we will have to wait for the shops and the folks doing the builds to let us know.

Why don't HD build crankshaft that you can take apart and put back together and it will not slip.
They did it years ago.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 05:52 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by cardboard
Thanks for reminding me, I knew it was somewhere down there. That's why I said LIke.
Age is catchin up with me. Plus sittin in the house from the rain and cold weather.

Why don't HD build crankshaft that you can take apart and put back together and it will not slip.
They did it years ago.

The same reason they don't install Timken Lefty bearings, ( but will sell you one from the S/E Parts Book!)

It's cheaper to do it this way.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 05:56 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Stiggy
The same reason they don't install Timken Lefty bearings, ( but will sell you one from the S/E Parts Book!)

It's cheaper to do it this way.
The new bikes use INA bearings. INA really offers more bearing surface.

Seen a lot of folks convert to Timeken bearings when they do builds
.
Also seen a lot of problems after the conversion. And the builds went bad.

Got a guy I know who is a gearhead and builds race motors.
He will not take a set of Harley cases with INA bearings and convert them to timeken bearings.
If you want timeken bearings he will buy new cases that was made for them. Like S&S cases
 
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 06:11 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by cardboard
The new bikes use INA bearings. INA really offers more bearing surface.
Yeah but they're straight edge, not tapered. Under high torque they tend to twist where the tapered hold their shape.

Everyone is a high torque rider sometime. All you have to do is hit the brakes hard in third gear in a panic stop and not get the clutch in in time, or skitter across RR tracks. There's a dozen scenarios.

Harley did a disservice when they dropped the tapered bearing as standard IMO. My bike has it stock and will turn 100,000 miles next week and still runs a smooth as it did at 50,000. ( Seriously just knocked on some wood just then!)
 
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