2011 103" oil leak
The reason I asked about the sealant was because when I last changed the oil (previous service was the 1000 mile service at the dealer), I noticed a grey substance on the threads. Wasn't sure if it was thread sealant or maybe anti-seize. I'll check the bolts on the clutch release cover and see if that does the trick. If not, I need to take it in for the brake switch recall and I'll have the dealer check out the leak.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Thanks for the suggestions.
I have double checked the manual, and there is no sealant recommended. Even tho on the first time open the oil plug screw, I have seen some light grayish stuff on thread, which appears as anti-seize.
Last edited by jackhis; Dec 13, 2011 at 02:25 PM.
I think they put some kinda Teflon dope on the threads at the factory, which wears off over time. I just clean it off & install a new O-ring every time. Never a problem.
BTW. I have reused the O ring for 6 times (25K on my bike), and it appears still good. No leak!
I am lucky, I guess!
It's not your oil plug for goodness sake. It's the two bolts at the bottom of the transmission cover that hold the exhaust bracket. This is a common issue.
You can re-tighten with the end of a ball type allen, or when you remove your header, replace the bolts with some grade 8 black hex head bolts, use a lock washer, and use red locktite...blue if you are afraid of red. Torque to service manual specs. Then it's fixed for good.
You can re-tighten with the end of a ball type allen, or when you remove your header, replace the bolts with some grade 8 black hex head bolts, use a lock washer, and use red locktite...blue if you are afraid of red. Torque to service manual specs. Then it's fixed for good.
Yup, u have a warranty so use it!!! I like wrenchin as much as the next guy but when it comes to any leak on a 20k+ vehicle thats under warranty they'd be hearin from me ASAP!!!
It's not your oil plug for goodness sake. It's the two bolts at the bottom of the transmission cover that hold the exhaust bracket. This is a common issue.
You can re-tighten with the end of a ball type allen, or when you remove your header, replace the bolts with some grade 8 black hex head bolts, use a lock washer, and use red locktite...blue if you are afraid of red. Torque to service manual specs. Then it's fixed for good.
You can re-tighten with the end of a ball type allen, or when you remove your header, replace the bolts with some grade 8 black hex head bolts, use a lock washer, and use red locktite...blue if you are afraid of red. Torque to service manual specs. Then it's fixed for good.
I had the same problem with those two transmission bolts. There is an old thread a few months back that addresses this and provides a number for an HD service bulleton on new higher torque numbers for the 103s for these bolts. if you look back you will find it. i had those bolts and the ones around the oil pan retorqued under warranty and have had no problems since.
Here's my final follow up to this saga...
I finally had a day off, so I took the bike to my dealer yesterday to have the rear brake switch recall done and to properly fix the oil leak. The tech found 3 oil leaks:, the side door gasket (where the clutch release assembly attaches to the transmission), the stator, and the oil filter mount plate gasket.
They replaced all 3 gaskets, including my stator and all under warranty. Thanks to Chandler HD for a great job!
I finally had a day off, so I took the bike to my dealer yesterday to have the rear brake switch recall done and to properly fix the oil leak. The tech found 3 oil leaks:, the side door gasket (where the clutch release assembly attaches to the transmission), the stator, and the oil filter mount plate gasket.
They replaced all 3 gaskets, including my stator and all under warranty. Thanks to Chandler HD for a great job!







