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Help, fried something...
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3rd Gear
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: NM
Help, fried something...SOLVED?
Well, I don't know what happened but when I got it all back together, ready to load on the trailer to take it to the shop, I thought I'd try it one more time. F___ing amazing: IT STARTED NORMALLY. The only thing I can think of is that a connection was bad somewhere and with all the insertions and what not, the contact resistance was eliminated.
Thanks for all the comments but I'm good to go again.
I'm brand new to this forum.
I joined after finding it on Google where I was looking for help because I fried something and now my '02 FLHPI won't start.
Ugh, the battery was low after sitting for months so I tried to jump start it but screwed up the polarity for less than a second but fried something...now it won't start.
I checked the fuzes, the relays, the lights work, the ignition switch works, the turn signals work, I can hear the fuel pump, but the start button does nothing.
there is no voltage on the starter solenoid green wire.
If I push the starter solenoid in manually, the engine will start and run.
So, it's somewhere between the start button on the handlebars and the start relay, I guess.
If anyone knows how to proceed, I will deeply appreciate it.
thanks!
Thanks for all the comments but I'm good to go again.
I'm brand new to this forum.
I joined after finding it on Google where I was looking for help because I fried something and now my '02 FLHPI won't start.
Ugh, the battery was low after sitting for months so I tried to jump start it but screwed up the polarity for less than a second but fried something...now it won't start.
I checked the fuzes, the relays, the lights work, the ignition switch works, the turn signals work, I can hear the fuel pump, but the start button does nothing.
there is no voltage on the starter solenoid green wire.
If I push the starter solenoid in manually, the engine will start and run.
So, it's somewhere between the start button on the handlebars and the start relay, I guess.
If anyone knows how to proceed, I will deeply appreciate it.
thanks!
Last edited by taoshum; Dec 17, 2011 at 04:38 PM.
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 581
Likes: 1
From: Minnesota
welcome to the forum. There will be someone that can give you a good answer here shortly. I won't make a guess, not sure on the answer to your question. But you could try swapping relays around to help narrow down your search
He stated that if he pushes the starter solenoid manually the bike starts. I'd check everything up to the solenoid to make sure something isn't fried or perhaps a blown fuse, this is when the service manual comes in really handy, I don't happen to have one for that year, sorry. BTW welcome to the forum, hopefully somebody with a bike close to that year will chime in and be able to help.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,588
Likes: 6,435
From: Honah Lee
There is a 15A fuse marked battery, a 15 amp marked ECM and a 15 amp marked ignition (in fuse box) and a circuit breaker (softails is behind plastic panel in front of rear wheel (up in wheel well) The green wire comes from the start relay needs the 15 amp ignition fuse along with the key switch and the start switch. (the on/off on the bars just breaks this wire. Could be here. There is a power ground in the ECM and it gets over my head here other then making sure each part reads correctly in the circuit. There is two grounds in front of seat area at ground post two. Check for power thru 15A ignition fuse and at start relay. If so it the start switch or the on/off probably. Reversing current should not hurt switches. ECM should be protected from that.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Dec 17, 2011 at 02:21 PM.
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 902
Likes: 3
From: Cincinnati, OH
I did something similar on my car when I was installing a car stereo and it turned out to be my battery. My interior lights still worked and other low draw items like door locks but as soon as I tried to start the car, I got only a clicking noise. Turns out I destroyed a cell in the battery. New battery took care of it. You might start there?
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Road Captain
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 547
Likes: 3
I did something similar on my car when I was installing a car stereo and it turned out to be my battery. My interior lights still worked and other low draw items like door locks but as soon as I tried to start the car, I got only a clicking noise. Turns out I destroyed a cell in the battery. New battery took care of it. You might start there?
"If I push the starter solenoid in manually, the engine will start and run."
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Thread Starter
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3rd Gear
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: NM
There is a 15A fuse marked battery, a 15 amp marked ECM and a 15 amp marked ignition (in fuse box) and a circuit breaker (softails is behind plastic panel in front of rear wheel (up in wheel well) The green wire comes from the start relay needs the 15 amp ignition fuse along with the key switch and the start switch. (the on/off on the bars just breaks this wire. Could be here. There is a power ground in the ECM and it gets over my head here other then making sure each part reads correctly in the circuit. There is two grounds in front of seat area at ground post two. Check for power thru 15A ignition fuse and at start relay. If so it the start switch or the on/off probably. Reversing current should not hurt switches. ECM should be protected from that.
Then I pulled the start relay and the stop lamp relays and applied power to terminals 1&2... with and without the correct polarity and the relays switch properly, causing a short between terminals 3 and 5. Terminal 5 is the Green Wire position. The input to the start relay comes from the start button, thru the clutch switch, and something called "start relay control" which comes from the TSM/TSSM. I don't know what or where the TSSM is located...the TN/GN wire comes from this TSSM module. The BK/R wire comes from the start button/clutch. Nothing is going to get on the GN wire without both of these signals. BTW, these relays are identical.
What a pain.
