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If you don't have a MightyVac or any other bleeder and you don't want to buy one, you can do it completely manually.
Open the bleeder, depress the pedal/lever, close the bleeder, release the pedal/lever. Repeat the process as many times as necessary until you have clean, clear fluid coming out the bleeder. And the same caution not to let the master cylinder run dry still applies.
As for type of brake fluid, it should be marked on the master cylinder cap, e.g., DOT3, DOT4, DOT5, etc.
I have one similar to this, very fast and easy. I like to start by evacuating the cleaning the master cylinder reservoir first, I've seen some nasty gunk floating/sticking to the housing that I wouldn't want pulled through the rest of the system. The rest of the job is simple as mentioned, keep the reservoir topped up as you pull ( or push ) it through until you have clean fluid at the bleeder screw.
I see everyone says to not let the master cylinder go dry, but why not? Don't you want to get all that crap out of there and wipe the reservoir clean, then fill it with fresh fluid?
I see everyone says to not let the master cylinder go dry, but why not? Don't you want to get all that crap out of there and wipe the reservoir clean, then fill it with fresh fluid?
They say this so you dont introduce any air into the brake system. There is a ball valve at the bottom of the reservoir, as long as you dont squeeze the brake lever with the m/c empty you wont get any air in the lines. I usually do this and wast the m/c with denatured alcohol and a dust free towel, than fill with fresh fluid and flush. If you squeeze the brake with empty m/c the valve will suck air inside, than you run the likelihood of air pockets, which will hang up somewhere in the system and you can get a soft brake or if the bubble was large enough you can have complete brake failure.
Its easy to see the new fluid coming out after youve watched all the old dark stuff come out.
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