tour pack paint and prep
Road Captain
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 547
Likes: 2
From: iowa
I was also a painter by trade at an earlier part in my life. If someone wanted to save some money by doing the prep work themselves, I simply wouldn't do the job. Most people that have never done this type of work simply do not understand the steps and the precision required.
Now if you have a painter that is willing to coach you through the prep processes, and you have a very high "attention-to-detail" mentality, then maybe that's a different story.
Now if you have a painter that is willing to coach you through the prep processes, and you have a very high "attention-to-detail" mentality, then maybe that's a different story.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,979
Likes: 1,165
From: No where near you, OH
I agree, I do this every day, had a guy come in today with some Dyna parts he wanted "re-clear coated". I cringed when I saw em, looks like they were scuffed with a handful of dirty rocks. Cost the guy more in the end because he tried to help. Talk to your painter and see what his preference is and if you really will save money, or not.
Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 620
Likes: 2
From: Midwest City, OK
[QUOTE=Newharleylover;9169243]+1 on that one! Been there myself. It doesn't matter how good a painter you are. If you're trying to paint something someone sanded with a power trowel, you will have power trowel marks with a fresh coat of paint on it
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,846
Likes: 173
From: Simi Valley, CA
[quote=BIGVTWIN;9170287]
Everytime I've tried to instruct someone on the basics of sanding my patience is put to the test. It seems that most beginners want to sand with their fingertips. This causes peaks and valleys in the surface that show up as waves in the finished product. When sanding you want your hand to be as flat as possible with the minimum of pressure points to achieve a smooth flat surface. Personally, I always employ some type of backing i.e., sanding block, sponge type pad, etc. whenever possible.
Just last week a friend of mine was wanting to detail his bike at my place. I was watching him apply the polish and wax. And guess what? He's using his fingertips! I explained to him that his hand should be flat or the applicator should be folded so it is thick enough that the high pressure points from his fingertips are minimized. The same principles apply for polishing and waxing as for sanding.
+1 on that one! Been there myself. It doesn't matter how good a painter you are. If you're trying to paint something someone sanded with a power trowel, you will have power trowel marks with a fresh coat of paint on it
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,296
Likes: 3
From: Cheltenham, UK
Worst thing is it often takes more effort and time to re-work poor prep than to do the job from start to finish.
Not a painter but...I have followed a similar journey to that proposed by you with our painter at work. Never again!
Not a painter but...I have followed a similar journey to that proposed by you with our painter at work. Never again!
Thread Starter
|
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 491
Likes: 21
From: CANADA
Okay guys I finally get the message. I am a plumber by trade and have gone to jobs after the home handyman has had a go at it and finally given up and called me. I have usually ended up ripping out what he has done and started over doing it properly. He saved nothing. Since I know nothing about painting I can see I might do more damage even with good intentions than if I took it to a qualified painter and had him prep it and paint it. Thanks for the advice. Point taken.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,846
Likes: 173
From: Simi Valley, CA
Okay guys I finally get the message. I am a plumber by trade and have gone to jobs after the home handyman has had a go at it and finally given up and called me. I have usually ended up ripping out what he has done and started over doing it properly. He saved nothing. Since I know nothing about painting I can see I might do more damage even with good intentions than if I took it to a qualified painter and had him prep it and paint it. Thanks for the advice. Point taken.
Smart man! And just so you know, anything I may have said shouldn't discourage you to the point of giving up. If you wanted to learn I'm sure you could. But you'd be best off practicing on some not-so-critical pieces first before trying your hand on your pride and joy. Good luck.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,403
Likes: 20
From: Indy
I learned how to wax when I was building molds for a fiberglass production line, we had to wax molds 10 times, then have a part run, then wax it a couple more times, we put the pad down flat ,lay the palm on it, then twist your wrist, and move it around in a 2' square.
[quote=2black1s;9171122]
Everytime I've tried to instruct someone on the basics of sanding my patience is put to the test. It seems that most beginners want to sand with their fingertips. This causes peaks and valleys in the surface that show up as waves in the finished product. When sanding you want your hand to be as flat as possible with the minimum of pressure points to achieve a smooth flat surface. Personally, I always employ some type of backing i.e., sanding block, sponge type pad, etc. whenever possible.
Just last week a friend of mine was wanting to detail his bike at my place. I was watching him apply the polish and wax. And guess what? He's using his fingertips! I explained to him that his hand should be flat or the applicator should be folded so it is thick enough that the high pressure points from his fingertips are minimized. The same principles apply for polishing and waxing as for sanding.
[quote=2black1s;9171122]
Everytime I've tried to instruct someone on the basics of sanding my patience is put to the test. It seems that most beginners want to sand with their fingertips. This causes peaks and valleys in the surface that show up as waves in the finished product. When sanding you want your hand to be as flat as possible with the minimum of pressure points to achieve a smooth flat surface. Personally, I always employ some type of backing i.e., sanding block, sponge type pad, etc. whenever possible.
Just last week a friend of mine was wanting to detail his bike at my place. I was watching him apply the polish and wax. And guess what? He's using his fingertips! I explained to him that his hand should be flat or the applicator should be folded so it is thick enough that the high pressure points from his fingertips are minimized. The same principles apply for polishing and waxing as for sanding.
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Verdad Gallardo
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: Pendleton Oregon
I just recently did this. Got a used tour pack. I attempted to prep it and it was taking forever. I said screw it. Took it to the painter who did everything. I just wanted it painted black. After all was said and done he charged me 190. The paint came out awesome and I was pretty happy with the price.
