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Works on aircraft and aircraft related systems that I worked with. Never had any problems or mishaps even with the excessive stress and vibration of a jet pulling G's in a turn. But what do I know? I was trained by the gov't and my quality assurance stamp only meant I verified it was done right and safe for flight.
Works on aircraft and aircraft related systems that I worked with. Never had any problems or mishaps even with the excessive stress and vibration of a jet pulling G's in a turn. But what do I know? I was trained by the gov't and my quality assurance stamp only meant I verified it was done right and safe for flight.
+1
In the automotive field we were also trained that it is a "range" that is acceptable. A minimum to maximum range. Anywhere in-between is OK.
if you do it the way I suggest, you will never be wrong, if you believe torque specs are a value with a high and low go the other way. in the long run, don't let your nuts and bolts come loose!!
Last edited by harleycharlie1992; Jan 10, 2012 at 04:04 PM.
Whether you believe its a range or 2 steps, of the 2 hyphenated values in the torque specification, you can't go wrong by using the latter, higher value. While commonly considered the max torque you should apply, it is actually 75% of absolute torque, which is simply an engineering margin of safety. If there is a chance that you somehow surpass that margin of safety, it is typically recommended to use new fasteners. Torquing in steps usually goes 1/3, 2/3,3/3 max specified. I've always recognized xx-xx ft/lbs as a torque range, and will continue to do so until I see it contradicted in print by a qualified source.
When a fastener list a range I always torque to the high end of that range.
Just make sure you are using high quality, accurate torque wrenches. Can't stress this enough. Don't use a torque beam style or a parts house rental. I can all but guarantee you they will be inaccurate.
I send mine back for re-calibration every so often just to be sure they are accurate. Even the highest quality torque wrenches will get out of calibration with enough use.
They are $.50 a piece for the standard ones, so $5 for a front and rear rotor swap. How often do people change their rotors? I don't think $5 is going to break anyones wallet. If the manual suggests to not reuse them and replace them I think it would be a wise choice to do so, imo. I am swapping wheels soon and reusing my stock rotors but I purchased new front/rear rotor bolts and rear pulley bolts.
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