code p1353 no combustion front cyl
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5th Gear
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: hermitage tn
code p1353 no combustion front cyl
this 07 ultra has 29,000 miles had plugs installed 7500 miles ago and the fall of 2011 the ck eng light started coming on, most the time in 5th or 6th gear going upgrade, but no problem, at first the code was po152 high voltage on rear o2 sensor. Cleared that code a few times and now p1353, clear that and it comes back p1353 no combustion frt cyl, any throughts out there would
be great. ultraniterider
be great. ultraniterider
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Honah Lee
Inserted to bump you back up.....
Probably a connection. Replace plugs and make sure they are correct (this code will be thrown from incorrect resistance in wires or plug and is only checked at speed--of course a real misfiring plug will also throw it. Check ohm resistance of spark plug wires 4700-11200 for long one, 1800-4400 short one. Remove the negative battery terminal and then positive. Pull and recharge battery 24 hour and have checked at Autozone or dealer free. Carefully in a straight line unplugging and re-plugging the ECM. Do the same to the 4 pin connector on the coil. Then clear all the codes and see what happens.
Probably a connection. Replace plugs and make sure they are correct (this code will be thrown from incorrect resistance in wires or plug and is only checked at speed--of course a real misfiring plug will also throw it. Check ohm resistance of spark plug wires 4700-11200 for long one, 1800-4400 short one. Remove the negative battery terminal and then positive. Pull and recharge battery 24 hour and have checked at Autozone or dealer free. Carefully in a straight line unplugging and re-plugging the ECM. Do the same to the 4 pin connector on the coil. Then clear all the codes and see what happens.
Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: American by Birth, SOUTHERN by the Grace of GOD!
No combustion codes on both cylinders
I have a 2004 Dyna Wide Glide and today it started running rough at idle, spitting and popping, and finally just would not even move out of its own tracks. Got it out of the shop a few weeks ago for this same reason and it run great until I changed the stock pipes with some Vance and Hines slip on's to V and H straight shots with those horrible sounding baffles in them. I am waiting for a set of Quiet baffles to try and restore some back pressure to this bike in hopes that it will sound and run better! Now back to the misfire problem, I checked the codes and it gave me a non combustion code on both cylinders and was still running on at least one until it just went dead altogether. Called a friend and towed it back to my local dealer where to my surprise it cranked and ran flawlessly right off the trailer. This problem is intermittent when it starts the trouble and my dealer just scratched his head and drove the bike down the road and back with no problem! I'm new to the fuel injected Harley's and I was wondering if anyone could lend some good advice before I dive into the pocket book one more time to help make my dealer a millionaire!
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From: Honah Lee
Putting the quite baffles in the pipes is garbage compared to the stock system. The stock system has two baffle systems the whole length of the muffler with a plate in the center. (plate make the two) That whole pipe is drilled. The quite system you just got is a foot of drilled holes. Just my opinion from experience. Do not think you exhaust is the problem. My first picture is the quite baffles installed, too loud for me python stock baffles and pythone exhaust.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Sep 14, 2018 at 11:15 AM.
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From: las vegas nevada
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From: Oklahoma
If it were mine, I'd start by pulling the front plug and looking at it. If it is wet, the cylinder is getting fuel and the problem is somewhere in the ignition system, hopefully just that plug. If the plug is dry, it is a fuel problem.
If the plug is wet, put it in the rear cylinder and the rear plug in front. If problem moves to the rear cylinder, the plug is at fault. If the "known good" plug in the front jug doesn't fix the problem, a more complicated solution is called for, connections between the ECU and the coil, the ignition wire or the coil.
If it is hardly running at all now, I would also be suspicious of a failing crank position sensor or a poor connection in that circuit. Modern equipment is great while it is running right, and miserable to trouble shoot when it isn't.
If the plug is wet, put it in the rear cylinder and the rear plug in front. If problem moves to the rear cylinder, the plug is at fault. If the "known good" plug in the front jug doesn't fix the problem, a more complicated solution is called for, connections between the ECU and the coil, the ignition wire or the coil.
If it is hardly running at all now, I would also be suspicious of a failing crank position sensor or a poor connection in that circuit. Modern equipment is great while it is running right, and miserable to trouble shoot when it isn't.
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Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 185
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From: American by Birth, SOUTHERN by the Grace of GOD!
Thanks guys! I trouble shot the system and found a bad coil. Coil was coming and going only after it got hot after 45 miles or so! Installed new coil, plugs, and rode the hell out of it today and it runs GREAT! Thanks again for the info and be careful out there!
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