Interesting way to remove spark plugs
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 206
Likes: 6
From: Michigan
Supporter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 587
Likes: 1
From: Ga.
What, You think that there is carbon buildup on my iridium plugs that have 247,000 miles on them right now. Maybe it's time I change them and find out, I was going for 250,000 before I changed the plugs, but I guess I could do it a few miles sooner.
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Never heard of loosening the plugs then turning the engine over. Not sure I really follow the benefit of that. The piece on "getting a feel for 5 pounds and then using that as a reference to apply your own torque feel" -- now that was ridiculous. I torque everything. Won't go into it here but I have some funny stories from my Navy career as a Mechanic when I came to a facility that did not even own a torque wrench. They are IMPORTANT -- don't do your own work without one.
I do use a piece of hose to get the plug started... I do use anti-seize too.. but stuff that is specific to spark-plugs which is conductive. You don't want to use regular anti-seize... maybe you will never have an issue but some general anti-seize preps are insulating and I am thinking they could reduce the plug's electrode attractiveness as a ground to the spark (reduce spark, intermittent spark... etc. maybe a possible source for problems that you can remove from the equation just by selecting the right product.
One other very good tip I have that may make my diatribes worth reading... the spark plug well on the VRSC picks up debris, sand, etc. You need to blow that out before you remove the plug or it will fall into your cylinder. Even with a tightly fitting coil boot (seal) junk gets by. Not good to get abrasive debris into the cylinder. I use 90 psi garage air and blow it through high pressure pin point hand operated air gun and really blow it around until I am sure it is clear.
(Got to have an air system... compressor, etc. or a portable air tank will do).
This is a $2 air "gun" from Harbor Freight:
I do use a piece of hose to get the plug started... I do use anti-seize too.. but stuff that is specific to spark-plugs which is conductive. You don't want to use regular anti-seize... maybe you will never have an issue but some general anti-seize preps are insulating and I am thinking they could reduce the plug's electrode attractiveness as a ground to the spark (reduce spark, intermittent spark... etc. maybe a possible source for problems that you can remove from the equation just by selecting the right product.
One other very good tip I have that may make my diatribes worth reading... the spark plug well on the VRSC picks up debris, sand, etc. You need to blow that out before you remove the plug or it will fall into your cylinder. Even with a tightly fitting coil boot (seal) junk gets by. Not good to get abrasive debris into the cylinder. I use 90 psi garage air and blow it through high pressure pin point hand operated air gun and really blow it around until I am sure it is clear.
(Got to have an air system... compressor, etc. or a portable air tank will do).
This is a $2 air "gun" from Harbor Freight:
Last edited by JayDRod; Jan 21, 2012 at 04:58 PM. Reason: Photo too big...
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 462
Likes: 1
From: n.e. ohio
This guy is a genius! I wish I would have seen this post before I bought the special tools to torque my rockers down. who knew I could have done a few quick curls with a few gallons of gas and applied that feeling to my wrench. Oh boy
