Cam Install While Top End is Off
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Tourer
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 267
Likes: 0
From: Winston-Salem NC
Cam Install While Top End is Off
Quick question, and hope it isn't a dumb one. I am installing a 107" kit and cam on my Street Glide this winter. I just got the heads off yesterday to send to Dragos for Port and Polish and there is a couple week turn around time on them. So my question is, is there a benefit or necessity to change the cams while the top end and pushrods are installed or does it even really matter? I realize they need to be lined up, etc. But it seems that if anything it would be easier while the pushrods are out?
Thanks for any feedback.
Thanks for any feedback.
Road Master
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 872
Likes: 20
From: Niagara Falls Canada
setting lifters
with the rocker covers off it makes it a bit easier to see when the valve seats in when lifter bleeds down. while u have the top end off check the end play in the rocker arms to base plate ends. think spec is .020 but pretty sure they will slide back and forth and make it sound like pushrod still has play. im betting the end play is more like .006 new and wears in and gets looser and they say to change out at .020 ive got one that is pretty loose and should have check it like im recommending before i put it back togethr. I could feel the end play as i was setting the pushrods making sure they were in the socket when i noticed the play. dont over tighten the jamb nuts on pushrods they break real easy. i split 2 and replaced them with 9/16 nfs theaded ones even though its a 1/2 wrench it aint 5/16 nfs thread.
Last edited by 2009blackpearle; Feb 13, 2012 at 04:51 PM. Reason: added stuff
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 473
Likes: 5
From: Grays Creek, NC
..... So my question is, is there a benefit or necessity to change the cams while the top end and pushrods are installed or does it even really matter? I realize they need to be lined up, etc. But it seems that if anything it would be easier while the pushrods are out?
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 364
Likes: 0
From: pennsylvania
AS BugBYter said, your pushrods have to be removed to change the cams. Half of your work is done now so it is the perfect time to change your cams. And, as 2009blackpearle said, check your rocker arm end play. That really does help with the valve noise. At least it did with mine.
Road Captain
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 624
Likes: 1
From: South of the tunnel Lancaster Co. PA.
x2....
Road Master
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 872
Likes: 20
From: Niagara Falls Canada
center oil pump
see if you can read up on centering the oil pump when putting it back together. also look at replacing the stock inner cam bearing with the heavier duty ones, unless the newer bikes already come with them in. only problem is you need a blind hole bearing puller to get them out. with a straight edge and vernier caliper measure how far they are each set in now before they get pulled out. then you will need to make or buy the bearing pusher plate, I made my own. if i recal the heavy duty bearing is a torrington b168 cost 8 bucks each at dealer. and one more thing you wil need to measure the align the outer cam gear pulleys ,this requires a shim to get the sprockets in line.
you will need to do some research on cam changes. then there is the pushrods if you have to change them and get adjustables you will need to learn how to set them -word of caution the heat treated locking nuts break real easy. they are 1/2 wrench but are actually 9-16 national fine thread. a bit of blue locktight wouldnt hurt as you are setting them. some say use it others dont. i had 2 split so i ended up using 9/16 to replace them, ground the corners off the 9/16 ones for tube clearance.
you will need to do some research on cam changes. then there is the pushrods if you have to change them and get adjustables you will need to learn how to set them -word of caution the heat treated locking nuts break real easy. they are 1/2 wrench but are actually 9-16 national fine thread. a bit of blue locktight wouldnt hurt as you are setting them. some say use it others dont. i had 2 split so i ended up using 9/16 to replace them, ground the corners off the 9/16 ones for tube clearance.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,377
Likes: 8
From: Atlanta, GA
My .02 cents is a cam change is a breeze if the top end is apart. Your exhaust is off and pushrods are out, so it's easier now than messing with all that later. If you haven't done so already, this is also a good opportunity to check your deck height, and if needed, have the tops of your cylinders milled.
I went through the whole process this winter. There are plenty of good opportunities to improve performance while everything is apart. Shimming the rocker arms were mentioned. Drilling the oil holes in rocker assembly with a #43 bit will help reduce blow by into the air cleaner. You may know all this, but I thought I'd mention it.
While I am helping spend money that is not mine, which head work are you going with? Stage 1 or 2? I'd go for the stage two at least. Are you doing your whole build with Drago?
I went through the whole process this winter. There are plenty of good opportunities to improve performance while everything is apart. Shimming the rocker arms were mentioned. Drilling the oil holes in rocker assembly with a #43 bit will help reduce blow by into the air cleaner. You may know all this, but I thought I'd mention it.
While I am helping spend money that is not mine, which head work are you going with? Stage 1 or 2? I'd go for the stage two at least. Are you doing your whole build with Drago?
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Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,377
Likes: 8
From: Atlanta, GA
That's correct. Shims for the exhaust are placed on the left side of the rocker box. Shims for intake are placed on the right. Your minimum gap should be .004"