Wrote thread Where To Start a few weeks ago about intermittent power lose. After much distress, this past weekend tore the ignition and fairing apart. After several hours of what the **** found a wire leading from the fairing back to the frame had a kink in it. After a splice, liquid electrical tape, and regular electrical tape, problem solved. Weekend finding a problem on your scoot, PRICELESS.

 

Congrats!!!! It's always more satisfying when you can find the problem yourself!!

 

Good job. Now you can file that under experience and maybe a starting point if something similar happens in the future.

 

hope you didn't solder it.

soldered joints fail on bikes due to vibration


mie

 

I've soldered everything I've ever done on all my bikes and use marine grade heat shrink and never had an issue , crimps can corrode over time

 

copper strands tend to break right where the solder tin ends, often concealed by the insulation

have a look, you'll be surprised, I know i was many years ago- after wiring my first bike ( luckily it was all adapting the lighting up front- it still ran)

it explains why automotive connections are crimped

I'm pretty good at wire management- I work with electronics


it'll work tomorrow, and the day after, and the day after that- but get enough miles on it and....


mike

 

Likewise.

 

If properly crimped soldered heat shrunk and supported I have never had a failure in a soldered joint. The better Marine engine manufacturers use tinned wire and solder every crimp. So do I where possible. The last crimp should be around the insulation to support the wire at the soldered joint.

 

Solder, crimp, I don't know which is best. I've seen just about everything fail. I use both and don't worry about either one. The OP mentioned he used electrical tape, that never works for very long, okay to use it as an added bonus if it makes you feel good, but not as the main insulation. If something shorts out, you still have to check everything no matter what was used.