Considering a 1999 Electra Glide Classic
Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 527
Likes: 0
From: Eugene, Oregon
I have 55,000 miles on my 1999 Road King. The only "serious" problems I've had were a broken front motor mount bolt, and that the rear shift lever walked off of the shifter shaft.
Regular maintenance & not pretending that it's a Hyabusa are the biggest factors in being relatively problem-free...
I'd say go for it!
Regular maintenance & not pretending that it's a Hyabusa are the biggest factors in being relatively problem-free...
I'd say go for it!
Tourer
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 403
Likes: 44
From: Montana
Hi all,
I too have a 99 RKC w/ M&M FI. I bought mine in 07 w/ 11,000 miles on her. I put S&S 510 gear drive drive cams in at 17,000 because of everything I had heard about the cam chest problems. I'm going to have to keep my girl for a long time and w/ 68,000 miles on the clock now she runs like a top. I too lost my rear shift lever a couple of times. Bummer was I ride w/ a buddy who's on a GS 1200 beemer and last time he stopped to pick up the rear shift lever, I'll never hear the end of that. Since I've decided to keep her I've put a 07 swingarm on her last spring and have 08 Brembo's going on this spring when I need fresh rubber up front. I've got all the parts just waiting on the weather to go wear that front tire out.......goldie
I too have a 99 RKC w/ M&M FI. I bought mine in 07 w/ 11,000 miles on her. I put S&S 510 gear drive drive cams in at 17,000 because of everything I had heard about the cam chest problems. I'm going to have to keep my girl for a long time and w/ 68,000 miles on the clock now she runs like a top. I too lost my rear shift lever a couple of times. Bummer was I ride w/ a buddy who's on a GS 1200 beemer and last time he stopped to pick up the rear shift lever, I'll never hear the end of that. Since I've decided to keep her I've put a 07 swingarm on her last spring and have 08 Brembo's going on this spring when I need fresh rubber up front. I've got all the parts just waiting on the weather to go wear that front tire out.......goldie
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,640
Likes: 817
There's a couple of bearing issues, depending on your engine manufacture date; and some other cam chest concerns.
1. The bolt used to attach the drive sprocket to the rear cam could loosen and cause the rotational force to shear the cast key of the sprocket, causing engine failure. The design was changed to the splined setup that's used now, as well as a bigger bolt. Mine never had an issue, but the condition does exist.
2. The bearing used in the cam support plate for both the front and the rear camshaft was originally a ball bearing. The rear bearing failed due to the extra loading and the design was changed to use a roller bearing for the rear only.
3. The inner cam bearing is an INA manufactured one, with rollers spaced apart by a steel stamped "cage". Many here (myself included) prefer the Torrington bearing that has more rollers without the steel spacing cage.
4. The cam chain tensioners are a wear item, and seem to wear inconsistently. I pulled mine at 38k, and they were worn, but still OK, others have had them disintegrate much earlier, and cause lots of engine damage by being ingested into the
A: oil pump and scarring the cam support plate with a resultant loss of oil pressure
B: cam bearings
C: crank bearings
These are the worst case scenarios, and many have had their bikes run long and trouble free.
I weighed the options, and decided a gear drive and all new bearings was the best route for me. You have to pull everything out anyway just to change the rear cam support plate bearing, and to me it made sense to get the biggest bang for the buck by doing all the cam chest work at one time.
YMMV.
1. The bolt used to attach the drive sprocket to the rear cam could loosen and cause the rotational force to shear the cast key of the sprocket, causing engine failure. The design was changed to the splined setup that's used now, as well as a bigger bolt. Mine never had an issue, but the condition does exist.
2. The bearing used in the cam support plate for both the front and the rear camshaft was originally a ball bearing. The rear bearing failed due to the extra loading and the design was changed to use a roller bearing for the rear only.
3. The inner cam bearing is an INA manufactured one, with rollers spaced apart by a steel stamped "cage". Many here (myself included) prefer the Torrington bearing that has more rollers without the steel spacing cage.
4. The cam chain tensioners are a wear item, and seem to wear inconsistently. I pulled mine at 38k, and they were worn, but still OK, others have had them disintegrate much earlier, and cause lots of engine damage by being ingested into the
A: oil pump and scarring the cam support plate with a resultant loss of oil pressure
B: cam bearings
C: crank bearings
These are the worst case scenarios, and many have had their bikes run long and trouble free.
I weighed the options, and decided a gear drive and all new bearings was the best route for me. You have to pull everything out anyway just to change the rear cam support plate bearing, and to me it made sense to get the biggest bang for the buck by doing all the cam chest work at one time.
YMMV.
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,124
Likes: 4
From: pittsburgh, pa
There are a lot of old school independent mechanics who can work on this bike, and as you've seen from the posts here, you'll have no problem getting advice and help on any issue you might have with this bike. EG's are fantastic, and you seem to come across a nice find. Have it checked out and go for it!
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: South Dakota
Hey everyone thanks for all the good advice. No I havent bought it yet. Waiting for the Dyna to sell. Have a couple people looking but no money in my hand yet so gotta wait. If it sells yes I will buy it if someone else doesnt get it first.
Again thanks for all the help.
ccnova
Again thanks for all the help.
ccnova
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 3,947
Likes: 5
From: Ontario, Canada
All rear cam bearings in 99' and some 00' twin cam engines will eventually fail. No ifs, no buts. If this one hasn't been changed over, it's just a matter of time.
If you buy the bike, at the very least, have new cam bearings installed and change the cam chain tensioners.
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: South Dakota
So, the 99 we were looking at sold before we sold ours. But right after we sold our Dyna we found a 2000 Electra Glide standard with 8200 miles. Needed a little maintaince and cleaning but we got it for $8200.
I called the local dealer and gave them the vin number and asked about the cam bearing issue. They said it was limited to the 99 model year. But I have seen on this forum that it may also include some 2000 model year bikes. How can I tell for sure? Any advice is appreciated!
Thanks,
ccnova
I called the local dealer and gave them the vin number and asked about the cam bearing issue. They said it was limited to the 99 model year. But I have seen on this forum that it may also include some 2000 model year bikes. How can I tell for sure? Any advice is appreciated!
Thanks,
ccnova
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Stage I
Joined: Apr 2024
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Tucson Arizona
99 Electra Glide Classic
I have a friend who is a millionaire and could afford any bike he wants. He has a 99 FLHT, a 99 FLHTCU, and a 2002 FLHTCUI, and a 2003 FLHTCUI. He has other bikes too. His favorite bike is the 99 FLHT.
Many people prefer carbureted over FI. Especially the '99.
I say get it checked by a dealer and if it checks out buy it.
Many people prefer carbureted over FI. Especially the '99.
I say get it checked by a dealer and if it checks out buy it.
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