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I went out on an extended ride yesterday and I started to notice that after about 50 miles my wrists were hurting. It seems that the OEM bars have to much of an inward angle. Not sure how to explain since I can only find info on rise, pull back and width. Please see the attached.
I would like to get the OEM bar but with an angle change as seen in orange. I think maybe a 1" bend would be perfect.
There are so many different handlebars for our bikes. I've know people to change their bars 3 times and more before finding the ones they like the best. It would be great if I could even afford to have one set changed. The dealer quoted $1100 to change the handlebars on my '09 Ultra Classic.
Changing bars does not have to be real expensive. Yes it cost me about $600 to do them myself and would have been about $1100 if a dealer would have done it, but that's because I went to bars that require changes in all the cables, wires, brakelines etc. Check out Klockwerks Ergo bars and similar ones that keep the stock cables, lines etc and it is much less expensive. The stock bars on my SG had me leaning a bit forward, I like to ride with my back straight particularly on long rides.
You have to look around, some sites have pictures of the bar angles. If you are thinking of changing them just for wrist position you may find somthing at the dealer. If you find your shoulder and back start to hurt you may need something higher, like bagger apes, something in the 12-14" height to reduce the back and shoulder pain. That is why I switched to ape hangers, feels like power steering. Alot more comfort when riding. Just a thought.
I changed out the OEM seat first and was hoping that I could tolerate the OEM bars, but after two years, I finally took the plung and swaped out the bars. This forum was a big help in researching bars, but there is such a wide selection of replacements, it still seems like a crap shoot. I settled in on some Wild1's and the jury is still out on them, but they are a much better than the OEMs.
It's not gonna be cheap. I did mine myself, but still cost me about $600, the bars, extended brake line and clutch cable, had to have some new grips, blah blah blah. Pullback and rise are the measurements that get you close, but you're right to look at the wrist angle too.
Hey Guys, saw your thread about switching out the superlow bars. I have an older sportster with buckhorns. I sat on the superlow the other day and want to switch out to those bars. If you guys still have them, do you want to sell? I am struggling finding them from a Harley shop. Plus as you all were saying, if the bars don't feel right, I can switch them for something else without spending a lot of dough. Thanks.
I just purchased a new 2012 EGUC (never had a Harley before so I'm really excited) and was wondering if anyone has ever attempted tilting them down about an inch. I realize that won't give much in the way of pullback but it's just a thought I had before switching to a bar with better reach.
I like to do my own work to the bike so has anyone attempted and documented what it takes to swap the OEM bars on an EGUC?
[quote=chief1600;9777665]I just purchased a new 2012 EGUC (never had a Harley before so I'm really excited) and was wondering if anyone has ever attempted tilting them down about an inch. I realize that won't give much in the way of pullback but it's just a thought I had before switching to a bar with better reach.quote]
You can tilt them down but make sure you still have grip and hand clearance to the filler cap on the tank. Also remember that tilting the bars down will change your wrist angle a bit plus you'll need to rotate your levers to match your shoulder to grip angle as it effects your wrist position.
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