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Be sure the vent holes in the MC lid are open and venting properly. According to the service manual you should get a surge of fluid in the MC when you first pull the lever in and that shows everything in the MC is correct. Surge will break the surface of the fluid in the reservoir. If you do it hard it will squirt fluid out so be ready.
Was there moisture in both calipers. How did the puck bores look. I can't find anything in my service manual that says to grease the pins. Never liked putting grease on any brake parts that are not sealed in a rubber boot because of dirt build up and possible contamination of the pads.
I think I may have found the problem. After a close check of the bore where the piston goes, found some pitting and corrosion. Guess I'll fork out a couple of hunderd bucks on a new one.
I think I may have found the problem. After a close check of the bore where the piston goes, found some pitting and corrosion. Guess I'll fork out a couple of hunderd bucks on a new one.
I can't find anything in my service manual that says to grease the pins. Never liked putting grease on any brake parts that are not sealed in a rubber boot because of dirt build up and possible contamination of the pads.
It's actually specialized brake caliper lube, not grease. And it does make a difference with the pads ability to retract by significantly reducing the amount of friction as they ride along the pin. You are correct that it is not specified in the service manual. I didn't think that was the OPs main problem though, it was just a suggestion for reduced friction and better pad retraction once he does get his main problem resolved.
It's actually specialized brake caliper lube, not grease. And it does make a difference with the pads ability to retract by significantly reducing the amount of friction as they ride along the pin. You are correct that it is not specified in the service manual. I didn't think that was the OPs main problem though, it was just a suggestion for reduced friction and better pad retraction once he does get his main problem resolved.
But I can understand the point you make. Thanks
A few days ago I was updating my service interval list and noticed there were things on my list that did not apply to my model bike (downloaded from this forum). Wheel bearing replace, swing arm bearing and bushing replace at 40K miles were among them. Also in the brakes section description it said to Inspect and Lube. I asked an Indy friend of mine if he used any lube when he did a brake job and he said no except the lever pivot so I assume this is what is meant on the list. As I just replaced my pads and did not lube the pins I went back and read through the SM and the only lube listed was a special quadring, piston and bore lube that comes in the piston rebuild kit. This could also be a problem here because the grease only comes in the kit but I think with no surge on lever pull the problem is in the MC.
Bigredone I have had pretty good results in the past cleaning up the MC bore with a 2 arm cylinder hone. Might want to give it a try before spending the big bucks on a new one. Since you have purchased the rebuild kit already. I have 25+ years on my Shovelheads lightly honed aluminum MC. As other posters said here be sure and check the brake light switch to be sure it is not stopping the lever travel and not allowing the piston to go all the way out. The surging comes with the first 1/8" or so of piston travel.
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