Do not use 'all pass,' this allows all frequencies to be passed and amplified. Your speakers are not capable of reproducing those low sub base frequencies and your amp is just wasting energy trying to amplify it. It is also a good way to blow your speakers, +100 watts of subsonic energy will eventually pop your speaker cones right out of their throat or burn the coils. You really want to limit anything under 100hz or so as that is more suited to sub woofers for that visceral feel. You are wasting power and taking energy away from the audible portion of the music by allowing the amp to work down into those low frequencies. High pass is the setting you should strive for with your filter set between 80 to 125 Hz. This way it passes all the 'higher' frequencies above that. Low pass is used to pass all the energy under those frequencies and is used for feeding woofers only.

 

gain at 5, 80 mhz...i called RF and thats what they have recommend

 

HP...also

 

That is why I was asking. Thanks for the feedback. I would imagine this could be a reason a lot of people get distortion as well.

 

I have my RF gain set at 5 and AP......now after reading the above posts I'm wondering if I should move it over to HP. I'm running Infinity Kappas 62.11 in the fairing only. Educate me where I will hear the difference between All Pass and High Pass, because it confuses the snot out of me..

 

Same setup and HP here also then dial in some bass with the frequency adjustment until you get it where you like it. I would also recommend that you put the outer fairing back in place temporarily and take a listen before you install all the screws because it does change the sound. Mine was way too bassy when set at AP.
Instructions say gain at 0, turn up volume to distortion then back off a little, turn up gain to distortion then back off a little.

 

Set mine to AP. I played around quite a bit with the settings and anything other than AP sounded like dog sh*t on my stereo. Gain is set to whatever value is around the 11 o'clock position.

Nothing scientific with my settings. I just played with it until it sounded great.

Fwiw - 300x2 RF, Infinity Kappa 62.11s, and magic box.

It screams.

 

I have the PBR300x2 and infinities 62.11 also.
My gain is set right around 5. (also 11:00 o'clock position if you use the slit as the guide.) Mine is set at AP, and seems a bit basey I will try the HP setting and set the frequency around 80 mhz.

If you go to the Audio forum there is a sticky at the top on how to set the gains by ear and with a digital multi meter. I used the meter for my settings. The instructions are there as different speakers and radio will play a part in the settings.

There are lots and lots of posts on this set up the OP has and how to set the gains etc over there.

 

Ok, here's what is happening with amplifiers. When an amp or speaker is tested for power level it is done at a single frequency, usually 1 kHz, right in the middle of the most sensitive part of our hearing range. The amp is only amplifying that one tone and an RMS wattage output level is taken at this point. Let's say it's available output is 130 watts. This means your amp will give an output of 130 watts RMS into a specified load, usually 2, 4, or 8 ohms, at that ONE frequency. When you have a lot of dynamic sounds all at once, meaning a whole lot of musical notes being played all at the same time, your amplifier now has to spread its 130 watts of energy over a much broader audio spectrum. This means that amplifier is now producing substantially much less than 130 watts at any given frequency in order to amplify a wider swath of frequencies. It's still 130 watts of 'total energy' but it is spread out so that any given frequency will have much less power when it has to share that available power.
Being that the bassier notes are lower in frequency means that they sustain longer, or more simply put, that they take longer to to travel. This ultimately means the amplifier must expend a lot of time and energy boosting this portion of the audio spectrum, power that is being robbed from the more sonic or higher audio frequencies. Anything below about 100 Hz you cannot really hear, it is more of a thump that you 'feel,' and is in the subsonic range. Given all that, you really don't want to waste all that potential amplifier power trying to slowly, and with great effort, move your speaker cones to something you can't hear anyhow.
If you crave the heavy thudding from your music then it is best to add a separate dedicated woofer and bass amp (set to LP of course.) This will free up your main amp for HP, or 'music only' amplification and your additional bass amp, when set to LP, will only spend its energy on sustaining those power robbing lowest frequency notes.
Additionally, this is why some amps and radios tend to distort when you have your bass set up high, you have no more amplifier energy left to move the higher audio ranges. All that amplifier power is spent boosting the bass, thus clipping and distorting the rest of the music. You've probably noticed that as you turn your bass level down the music becomes clearer, this is the reason why.

 

Mine is set on HP, gain at 5 and freq at 80.
I have the Kicker CS 6.75 speakers and the RF300 amp no flash
Did the same exact install on a friends bike, sounds awesome
Stuffed the speaker pods also.